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Routes in Left Wall

Cause for Pause S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crystalean P1 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Longing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Leonids S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mañana S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Meteor S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
No Burritos P1 T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
No Burritos, P2 T,S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Parallel Universe S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rampage T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snakes In The Grass S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unnamed Route 16 T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Urge to Merge S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 16,611 total · 210/month
Shared By: NateSkains on Oct 30, 2011
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Awesome route, First 3 bolts are the start of leonids, then wanders off to the right up toward the tower. Has two hard moves at the top of Pitch 1. Traverse right onto Triton Tower. Then climb an exposed arete up, then back on to the left face. Tops out on the top of the tower then make a traverse left on to the platform.

Location

Just right of Leonids.

Protection

Gear: 60 meter rope, 12 draws, 4 alpine draws, one number 4 DMM Dragon.
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.8+
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.8+
Climbed this today in 2 long pitches using a 60 meter rope. From the anchor atop pitch one, I was not able to locate any obvious bolt line onto the tower. A 20 foot (5.6ish) nervy traverse over some loose blocks, grass, and smooth slab is required to gain the tower proper. I have attached a photo of the traverse, and you can clearly see the first bolt which is immediately right of the anchor (orange wire gate) and the very next bolt (rap station), which is no short distance away. A slip here would be nasty. I slung a small bush and placed a cam up high in some rotten rock; many shenanigans were involved to try and protect against a hideous pendulum onto the anchor.

The rest of the climb is easy face/arete with great holds and an awesome view.

Mar 31, 2013
Jason Kim
Encinitas, CA
  5.8+
Jason Kim   Encinitas, CA
  5.8+
I should add, both those pieces were then back cleaned to reduce rope drag, which would otherwise have been awful. Mar 31, 2013
Chase Leoncini
San Diego, California
  5.8
Chase Leoncini   San Diego, California
  5.8
When youre about to start the traverse consider placing a 3" cam in the crack below the tree and then taking the stair-like rock formation up to the anchor. Its a little less protected (assuming the slinged rock holds) but this way its only about 5.4 climbing. To me slinging the crumbly rock looked sketchy. Id hate to hear that thing break when falling. Sep 29, 2013
ron amick
poway, ca
ron amick   poway, ca
what does 5.8+ mean? That would be 5.9 in my book, its not like theres a huge gap between the 2 ratings Feb 21, 2014
Either I missed a belay station and linked two pitches, or the first pitch had more bolts then I expected. Didn't see any definite numbers on here so I went with 16 draws and still skipped a bolt or two. Bring loads of gear and prepare to run out a little. Still felt comfortable, and the bolts are relatively close anyway.

Loved the pitch on the tower. Loved the climb overall. Used a cam on the traverse like someone mentioned above.

Rapped with two ropes and got to ground in 2 rappels.

Gear: 60 meter rope, 12 draws, 4 alpine draws, one number 4 DMM Dragon. Nov 30, 2014
carl
Durango, CO
 
carl   Durango, CO
 
Did this yesterday (1/3/15) taking advantage of the cool January weather. It was even chilly enough to make us wish we had brought a jacket for the belays! Linked the first two pitches just fine with a 60m rope, but did the last two separately to reduce rope drag. 4 raps back to the base. Jan 5, 2015
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
Two pitches is definitely the way to go if you have a few alpine draws. The the hand traverse at the top of the tower is sure to make any leader smile. Classic feature climbing and great exposure make this one's a definite contender for best moderate on the main wall. Jan 24, 2015
Do you need two ropes to rappel down ? Feb 19, 2015
tom donnelly
san diego
tom donnelly   san diego
You can rappel with one 60m rope, stopping at each rap station. Apr 6, 2015
Miguel D
SLC
 
Miguel D   SLC
 
Climbed on June 17th. Took us two hours to get to the base of the cliffs. We had a late start and it was pretty hot so we took several breaks.

Climbed it in two pitches with a 60m no problem. We were actually planning on doing three but it just naturally seemed easier to do just two. The traverse wasn't too bad. We used a #2 C4 on that crack below the three and it seemed pretty solid. Closer to the top of both pitches we felt some drag but mostly just the rope weight itself. It's not too bad since the climbing is easy anyway

The raps are very straightforward as well Jun 19, 2015
Jul S  
Completed in 2 pitches (linked P2, 3, and 4 on a 60m with rope to spare). For climbers like us new to the area: TH is unmarked but obvious - look for the plank across the drainage. Also, the first traverse right is above, not at, the roof that constitutes the base of Triton Tower. Misty day made for lots of rope drag on P2-4, but the choice between clipping into the useless janchors on the original line, the new anchors out of the way, or climbing through the last dinosaur-back traverse was easy - the climbing is too fun to stop. May 31, 2016
BJ Cook
San Diego, California
  5.8+
BJ Cook   San Diego, California
  5.8+


Did this Sunday when it was about 99 degrees out.

Pitch #1 - Super long, couple long reaches for quickdraw clipping and one cruxy move pulling up onto mantle about 2 bolts from belay anchors. Fun lead, holds are all there. Fun crimpy face climb.

Pitch #2 - About 25 feet, clip first bolt to right of anchors, placed BD #2 in crack, then cruised up stair-like blocks onto slabby belay. Don't take this spot lightly as a fall would = a big swing down into roof area.

(We belayed from this spot and connected pitches 3 & 4)

Pitch #3 - Awesome climb up exposed arete and wanders to left which has bomber ledges for feet.

Pitch #4 - Goes back right onto arete edge and up cool shark fin top out with traverse. Go high for best exposure.

Video of top of Meteor - instagram.com/p/BLXu4oGDpYO… Oct 11, 2016
Will H.
  5.9-
Will H.  
  5.9-
I'm not certain how to divide up the pitches (there are lots of anchors/rap stations). Assuming that P1 gets you to the traverse (as in BJ's comment), we did the same as Jul S - P1 then P2-4 link-up. Doing this necessitates more draws - 15 or so. Drag was manageable. I'd recommend extending the rusty-rap-anchor-pro and first bolt at the traverse before heading up the arête. P1 definitely held the crux for me, a couple ~5.9 moves. Make sure to let out a 'Yewww!" whilst rapping off the tower roof into space. Jan 28, 2017
Are the Cams and Trad climbing devices really necesary?? i havent invested on those yet. :/ Mar 27, 2018

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