Buffalo Brothers 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Brian Spiewak, Chris Hubbard |
| Submitted By: | ccross on Oct 23, 2008 |
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Austria following on Buffalo Brothers, Ramp below
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description P1: Walk left of belay anchor to find the low crux. Lots of patina after that. P2: Easier than the previous pitch, great ledge to belay from at the top.
Location Access from the halfway up the Ramp. Left of second anchor.
Protection Standard sport rack.
| Comments on Buffalo Brothers |
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By Ian Quigley May 1, 2011
| Sweet route! I did this yesterday with the wife. However, we couldn't find any rap anchors at the top of the last pitch, only the final bolt before turning over onto the ledge. I wandered around in the shrubs to the left on that ledge but came up empty-handed and had to lower off the last bolt on the face (not psyched). Is that rap station there? Was I looking in the wrong place? |
By mschlocker From: San Diego, CA May 16, 2011 rating: 5.7 PG13
| I just climbed this. The upper rap station is up to the right of the last bolt. After you top out you have to scramble right and up to the belay station that sits on a separate rock. It is clearly visible from the lower rap station and above. |
By Kellen Holt Mar 25, 2012
| Did this route a few weeks back. The first two "pitches" are less then memorable and should absolutely be combined together. There are no bolts between the P1 and P2 anchors, however the terrain is 5.2 at worst and very low angle. If you were really concerned you might be able to slot an OK nut somewhere, but it's really not necessary. Better to just lead the first pitch, clip the pitch 1 anchor as an additional bolt, and then climb all the way to the 2nd anchor. The 3rd and 4th pitches are the quality part of this route. The initial moves off the P2 anchor are a bit thought provoking but not too hard, and put you up on to the wildly featured face. The rock on these pitches is some of the most featured on El Cajon Mt., with lots of positive chickenheads, dinner plates, and flakes on an exposed face. The climbing is pretty sustained on P3, and P4 eases off a bit. The entire wall that this route sits on looks to have lots of potential, although it's hard to tell what the rock quality would be like. The only less than pleasant part of this route is the raps. The upper portion can get pretty windy in the afternoon, and that in combo with the heavily featured face makes pulling your ropes a bit of a process after each rap. We spent lots of time clearing our rope out of bushes and flakes as we rapped down. Not a huge hassle, just something to be mindful of on your way down. |
By Nick Y. Mar 26, 2012 rating: 5.8-
| Climbed this on Saturday. Kellen's info is spot on; skip the first station on the way up (but NOT on the way down, unless you like down-climbing). Belay station between the last two pitches is solid but not the most comfortable. Protection seemed plenty adequate to a new leader who's still sketched out by much runout. Bolts are all in great shape. |
By Industrialwrench Nov 13, 2012 rating: 5.6
| This is a very easy route. The first two moves of the actual route are about it. If your going to make the approach hike in I recommend climbing other routes...Better starter leads in Mission Gorge. |
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