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Buffalo Brothers 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Brian Spiewak, Chris Hubbard
Page Views: 4,276
Submitted By: ccross on Oct 23, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Austria following on Buffalo Brothers, Ramp below

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


P1: Walk left of belay anchor to find the low crux. Lots of patina after that.
P2: Easier than the previous pitch, great ledge to belay from at the top.


Access from the halfway up the Ramp (left of second anchor), or Rampage.


Standard sport rack.

Photos of Buffalo Brothers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jess rapping down from her first multi-pitch
Jess rapping down from her first multi-pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Jamie T leading Buffalo Brothers initial pitch.
Jamie T leading Buffalo Brothers initial pitch.

Comments on Buffalo Brothers Add Comment
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By Ian Quigley
May 1, 2011

Sweet route! I did this yesterday with the wife. However, we couldn't find any rap anchors at the top of the last pitch, only the final bolt before turning over onto the ledge. I wandered around in the shrubs to the left on that ledge but came up empty-handed and had to lower off the last bolt on the face (not psyched). Is that rap station there? Was I looking in the wrong place?
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I just climbed this. The upper rap station is up to the right of the last bolt. After you top out you have to scramble right and up to the belay station that sits on a separate rock. It is clearly visible from the lower rap station and above.
By Kellen Holt
Mar 25, 2012

Did this route a few weeks back. The first two "pitches" are less then memorable and should absolutely be combined together. There are no bolts between the P1 and P2 anchors, however the terrain is 5.2 at worst and very low angle. If you were really concerned you might be able to slot an OK nut somewhere, but it's really not necessary. Better to just lead the first pitch, clip the pitch 1 anchor as an additional bolt, and then climb all the way to the 2nd anchor.

The 3rd and 4th pitches are the quality part of this route. The initial moves off the P2 anchor are a bit thought provoking but not too hard, and put you up on to the wildly featured face. The rock on these pitches is some of the most featured on El Cajon Mt., with lots of positive chickenheads, dinner plates, and flakes on an exposed face. The climbing is pretty sustained on P3, and P4 eases off a bit. The entire wall that this route sits on looks to have lots of potential, although it's hard to tell what the rock quality would be like.

The only less than pleasant part of this route is the raps. The upper portion can get pretty windy in the afternoon, and that in combo with the heavily featured face makes pulling your ropes a bit of a process after each rap. We spent lots of time clearing our rope out of bushes and flakes as we rapped down. Not a huge hassle, just something to be mindful of on your way down.
By Nick Y.
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

Climbed this on Saturday. Kellen's info is spot on; skip the first station on the way up (but NOT on the way down, unless you like down-climbing). Belay station between the last two pitches is solid but not the most comfortable. Protection seemed plenty adequate to a new leader who's still sketched out by much runout. Bolts are all in great shape.
By Industrialwrench
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This is a very easy route. The first two moves of the actual route are about it. If your going to make the approach hike in I recommend climbing other routes...Better starter leads in Mission Gorge.
By Kemper Brightman
From: Walla Walla, WA
May 8, 2015

With a 70m rope this is essentially a single pitch route that takes three rappels to get off. No need to pitch out the low-angle approach ramp if you don't feel like it, walking up or simuling it are both reasonable options. Belay from the second anchor on the left side of the ramp and link both pitches into a slabtastic tour de patina. From the uppermost rappel anchor, make two raps to the belay anchor on the side of the ramp. One more rap should get you to the base of the ramp (we simul rapped here to maximize stretch).

Doing it this way turns the route into a quick warm up for the other moderate classics nearby.

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