|Type:||Sport, 2 pitches, 180'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|FA:||Brian Spiewak, Chris Hubbard|
|Submitted By:||ccross on Oct 23, 2008|
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|Comments on Buffalo Brothers||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ian Quigley
May 1, 2011
|Sweet route! I did this yesterday with the wife. However, we couldn't find any rap anchors at the top of the last pitch, only the final bolt before turning over onto the ledge. I wandered around in the shrubs to the left on that ledge but came up empty-handed and had to lower off the last bolt on the face (not psyched). Is that rap station there? Was I looking in the wrong place?|
From: San Diego, CA
May 16, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
|I just climbed this. The upper rap station is up to the right of the last bolt. After you top out you have to scramble right and up to the belay station that sits on a separate rock. It is clearly visible from the lower rap station and above.|
By Kellen Holt
Mar 25, 2012
Did this route a few weeks back. The first two "pitches" are less then memorable and should absolutely be combined together. There are no bolts between the P1 and P2 anchors, however the terrain is 5.2 at worst and very low angle. If you were really concerned you might be able to slot an OK nut somewhere, but it's really not necessary. Better to just lead the first pitch, clip the pitch 1 anchor as an additional bolt, and then climb all the way to the 2nd anchor.
The 3rd and 4th pitches are the quality part of this route. The initial moves off the P2 anchor are a bit thought provoking but not too hard, and put you up on to the wildly featured face. The rock on these pitches is some of the most featured on El Cajon Mt., with lots of positive chickenheads, dinner plates, and flakes on an exposed face. The climbing is pretty sustained on P3, and P4 eases off a bit. The entire wall that this route sits on looks to have lots of potential, although it's hard to tell what the rock quality would be like.
The only less than pleasant part of this route is the raps. The upper portion can get pretty windy in the afternoon, and that in combo with the heavily featured face makes pulling your ropes a bit of a process after each rap. We spent lots of time clearing our rope out of bushes and flakes as we rapped down. Not a huge hassle, just something to be mindful of on your way down.
By Nick Y.
Mar 26, 2012
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
|Climbed this on Saturday. Kellen's info is spot on; skip the first station on the way up (but NOT on the way down, unless you like down-climbing). Belay station between the last two pitches is solid but not the most comfortable. Protection seemed plenty adequate to a new leader who's still sketched out by much runout. Bolts are all in great shape.|
Nov 13, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
|This is a very easy route. The first two moves of the actual route are about it. If your going to make the approach hike in I recommend climbing other routes...Better starter leads in Mission Gorge.|