Type: | Boulder, 12 ft (4 m) |
FA: | unknown |
Page Views: | 1,304 total · 9/month |
Shared By: | BDalhaus on Sep 18, 2013 |
Admins: | BDalhaus, Brad Fauteux, Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
Want to climb the concave, slightly overhanging face of the Old Gold/Arch boulder via a large slopey flake, a couple of crimps and a cool sidepull?
Next to Arch Nemesis, this problem has some of the best movement on the whole boulder and while the moves are obvious, it's not as easy as it looks.
Start low with a left crimp and a right hand pinch on the flake. The starting foot is for the right foot and it's the little chip in the corner formed by the flake. Pull up to a good gaston divot for your left hand and then grab the obvious right hand crimp. At this point your fingers might say "No!". Crank on the crimp to get your left hand up to the half moon shaped hold and figure out how to grab it. It's far worse than it looks. Get a left foot on the start crimp and stand up to the sidepull. Now just get to the lip, either with a scary little jump or a delicate couple of "princess" moves with your feet. Top out with a mantle. Solid rock, fun moves, and deserving of more traffic.
Next to Arch Nemesis, this problem has some of the best movement on the whole boulder and while the moves are obvious, it's not as easy as it looks.
Start low with a left crimp and a right hand pinch on the flake. The starting foot is for the right foot and it's the little chip in the corner formed by the flake. Pull up to a good gaston divot for your left hand and then grab the obvious right hand crimp. At this point your fingers might say "No!". Crank on the crimp to get your left hand up to the half moon shaped hold and figure out how to grab it. It's far worse than it looks. Get a left foot on the start crimp and stand up to the sidepull. Now just get to the lip, either with a scary little jump or a delicate couple of "princess" moves with your feet. Top out with a mantle. Solid rock, fun moves, and deserving of more traffic.
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