Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,291 total · 17/month
Shared By: matthewWallace on Nov 17, 2012
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

This route is powerful.

Sit start on jugs and work your way up and left up the arete. This route is interesting and has some very slippery holds (which is a real rarity for Pway). Good foot work and body positioning will get you to the top out jugs.

Location

Start sitting in the same place of DJ Dan V3 and work up and left up the slopey arete using the big undercling along the way.

Protection

Pads and spotter.

Photos

B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
This problem is very charismatic, burly, and beta intensive. I'd say worth more than a couple stars. Aug 7, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4+
Myself and a couple friends climbed this route today and we having a discussion on the grade. Does anyone else feel this might be tougher than v4+? Aug 25, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V4
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V4
Were you climbing it in the heat? It felt pretty good with crisp holds. Sep 23, 2013
B-Mkll Mackall
Bozeman, MT
 
B-Mkll Mackall   Bozeman, MT
 
When we did it we were climbing in pretty significant humidity (65%ish) and it felt way hard for a V4, even a V4+. I could see easy V5 going, but I'd be hesitant to give it any kind of upgrade until another try is given in some drier conditions, because none of the individual moves felt like they deserved V5 status, particularly when we worked the feet out. Sep 27, 2013
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4+
I wouldn't say it was hot but it certainly wasn't the best conditions. We thought it might fall into the mid v5 range, but who know we might have missed something too... Sep 27, 2013
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V4
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V4
I finally got on this climb today. Took me a couple tries to work out beta and I definitely had to work a little harder than I expected for the send. But, v4 is probably accurate.

For instance, as a comparison at Round Pond, this problem is definitely easier than Gadgetry, Brett's Arete and Labrador Dreams.

I didn't use the undercling at all. Oct 8, 2013
Graham O.  
 
Decent problem, very burly Sep 17, 2016
Does this climb make the same first move as DJ Dan (out right to jug) then up and left to the finish jug from there, or straight up to sloper on the arete? The ladder seems significantly harder, not sure if i was doing some variation of the two Oct 12, 2016
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
  V4+
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
  V4+
The first move is right hand to the hold the girls right foot is on in the photo. Oct 13, 2016