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Routes in Dew Mound - Lower Wall

Broken Bit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Center Lane Closed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chump Monkey Among Us. S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Crows nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirt Burger T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Itchy and Scratchy Show, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Landfall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mike L. Boltin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New 40, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Nubian Princess S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stand and Deliver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stonemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Workman's Comp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Andy Hoyt, Dan Kryger
Page Views: 700 total · 11/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

Follow a left leaning crack/seam/flake feature to a jug haul. When in doubt trend left then come back to the bolts. Excellent climbing that suffers from poor bolt placements and with some moderate bolt moves could be an area classic.

Location

From the path head right, this should be the first route you come to. It has an old fixed ring style knife blade fixed by the 3rd bolt.

Protection

Bolts.

Photos

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Griswald
  5.11d
Griswald  
  5.11d
Soft for the grade. Sep 17, 2013
sasquatch
  5.12a
sasquatch  
  5.12a
Definitely a classic, and the bolt placements are fine. Jun 30, 2014
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.11c/d
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.11c/d
Not impressed with this route. One v4 move to easy climbing and they call it 12a? I think not. Watch for choss on this one, I sent a dozen chunks flying at my partner. It was hard to tell if the rock just sucked or if the FA party was to lazy to clean. Bummer, coulda been a fun line. I'll give one star for length. May 27, 2015
Just imagine how chossy it was before it had been climbed 300 times in 14 years. Welcome to Alaska. May 27, 2015
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12a
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12a
A crux move of V4 does translate to the route being .12a. Goliath in New Mexico is .13a and has no move harder than V4, but has 20-30 V4s. Several factors come into play when establishing grades. May 27, 2015
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.11c/d
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.11c/d
Bad comparison, this is a one move choss wonder. Jul 17, 2015
Yeah it is. I can't believe you didn't see that from the ground, and had to actually climb it to find that out. Jul 18, 2015
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12a
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12a
As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant. May 16, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.12a
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.12a
This is probably 5.9+ since I can't get up a 5.10. May 31, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12a
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12a
This line is .12a if you commit to the finger-lock, but most will find it a few letter grades harder at the bottom if you choose not to commit to the sharp finger-lock.

A hold at the (alternate) crux broke, leaving another less positive yet not bad hold in it's place or... making yarding on a sharp finger-lock more enticing. 7/14/2016


Either way, boulder problem beginning and then casual to the anchor. Jul 14, 2016

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