Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Evan Phillips / Skine Boynton (June 2000)
Page Views: 159 total · 4/month
Shared By: evanphillipsak on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

This route is recommended for experienced 5.10 leaders. Begin 15' left of 'Broken Bit'. Jam an awkward left-facing corner (5.9+), passing a fixed pin and a few bolts. Move up and right to a small stance on a pedestal. Crank on thin edges (fixed pin), then follow a steepening ramp, passing 3 more bolts. Move left, making exposed moves up and around an arete to chain anchors. This was the first route completed at Dew Mound.

Location

Begin 15' left of 'Broken Bit'.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 fixed pins, gear to 2". 60 meter rope rappel from chain anchors.

Photos

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Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
As of 7/4/2016 someone has made a serious effort to have others avoid this line. There is a downed tree that is placed against the wall at the base and a stick through the first bolt below the fixed pin.

This route is a choss pile. My guess is that the newly fallen crud that skirts the base recently exfoliated while someone was climbing it...as there are few new sizable blocks as far away as Broken Bit, which is to the right 15 feet. This line is a "Bomb" rating for a reason. Jul 5, 2016