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Routes in Dew Mound - Lower Wall

Broken Bit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Center Lane Closed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chump Monkey Among Us. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crows nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirt Burger T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Itchy and Scratchy Show, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Landfall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mike L. Boltin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Princess S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stand and Deliver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stonemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Workman's Comp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Evan Phillips / Skine Boynton (June 2000)
Page Views: 127 total · 5/month
Shared By: evanphillipsak on Oct 7, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

This route is recommended for experienced 5.10 leaders. Begin 15' left of 'Broken Bit'. Jam an awkward left-facing corner (5.9+), passing a fixed pin and a few bolts. Move up and right to a small stance on a pedestal. Crank on thin edges (fixed pin), then follow a steepening ramp, passing 3 more bolts. Move left, making exposed moves up and around an arete to chain anchors. This was the first route completed at Dew Mound.

Location

Begin 15' left of 'Broken Bit'.

Protection

8 bolts, 2 fixed pins, gear to 2". 60 meter rope rappel from chain anchors.

Photos

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Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
As of 7/4/2016 someone has made a serious effort to have others avoid this line. There is a downed tree that is placed against the wall at the base and a stick through the first bolt below the fixed pin.

This route is a choss pile. My guess is that the newly fallen crud that skirts the base recently exfoliated while someone was climbing it...as there are few new sizable blocks as far away as Broken Bit, which is to the right 15 feet. This line is a "Bomb" rating for a reason. Jul 5, 2016