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Routes in Dew Mound - Lower Wall

Broken Bit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Center Lane Closed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chump Monkey Among Us. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crows nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirt Burger T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Itchy and Scratchy Show, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Landfall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mike L. Boltin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Princess S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stand and Deliver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stonemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Workman's Comp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 2 pitches
FA: Skine Boynton, Evan Phillips
Page Views: 892 total, 16/month
Shared By: Matt 2or3 on Jun 11, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Two pitch sport outing up the main face of the lower section. Generally clean rock and some excellent face climbing.

Location

Located directly right where the main trail meets the lower/Main wall, just left of the roof.

Protection

11 Bolts for the first pitch. The second pitch has five bolts, with the option for a small cam up high. There is a slightly spooky traverse between bolts 1 and 2 on the second pitch.

Photos

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Maybe the folks that put those routes in, from the ground up, were a little taller than you? Or, maybe better foot work, making hanging those draws to prep for the pink point a bit less awkward? Or maybe they didn't really care what whiny kids from the rock gym that are used to bolts every 5 feet would think, because they climb for themselves, and not to impress anyone, or coddle to short people?

Is there a pull up bar bolted in at a nice safe height there yet?

Cheers!! Jul 30, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.10c/d
Whoa, so I can replace my Bosch with a spray can of bolts!? I am not sure we have a demographic statistician that specializes in Dew Mound routes yet. Not quite a budget for it at this point. Perhaps we can make a non-profit PFD campaign out of it? Anyway, not having bolts where gear can be placed is just fine. But, generally speaking, Andy, placing bolts in places where the rock is conducive and people can clip them without having to lasso them instead, is generally a popular trait some other sport and mixed cliffs have. In this particular case, the first bolt is worthless, that was the point. On Chump and Boltin, a few of them could be in slightly lower positions to make hanging draws a bit less awkward. I know this is obvious in itself, as a first ascentionist and route equipping guru knows. Now, how about that mechanical people moving device you were talking about? Lets get started. Cheers! Jul 30, 2016
You could always just spray in a handful of retro bolts to make it all nice and ADA approved. That's kind of the norm these days.... Or at least a clutch activated auto belay toprope so you don't have to hike out there with a 30 foot stick clip to avoid leading a route as its been lead, with no injuries, for 15 years.... Jul 30, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.10c/d
Lang, I dig. But, the same applies to the first pitch. The 1st bolt might as well be the 2nd. I changed the comment, to reflect that I was commenting on both pitches, but then rambled about the 1st, but didn't mean to disclude the 2nd. Jul 29, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10c PG13
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10c PG13
we were talking about the second pitch... Jul 28, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.10c/d
Lang and Ben are correct on this, pertaining to the 1st and 2nd bolt in respect to the 1st pitch and the 2nd, for different reasons. The 1st bolt is irrelevant, as by the time you are a few feet above and should a fall occur, you would deck. The fist bolt is just above arm height and the 2nd is at about 17-18 feet up. Bring a stick clip for this section and pre-clip the 2nd or 1st/2nd bolts.

There are a few routes on the wall, in addition to this that have bolts in less than ideal places while hanging draws. Mike L. Boltin and Chump Monkey come to mind as others on the lower wall. Jul 27, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.10c/d
As with a couple of other routes in this area, there are a few sections that can lead to getting off route without knowing and making the grade a little harder than the consensus. Without spoiling the beta, if things start feeling too crimpy and sloping, head right toward hanging pinches on a shallow arching roof ;) Either way, if you are planning on projecting any of the harder routes in the area, doing a few warm-up laps on this line is a great choice. Jul 15, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.10c/d
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.10c/d
Pitch one has 10 bolts with an optional 11th off to the left prior to the anchor. Jun 1, 2016
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10c PG13
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10c PG13
exactly. A fall there with marginal gear in "questionable pockets" that could blow would be an ankle breaker. Aug 7, 2013
Griswald  
 
You can place a 2 and 3 C4 in some questionable pockets between the first and second bolt. Aug 6, 2013
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
  5.10c PG13
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
  5.10c PG13
Falling on the traverse from bolts one and two on the second pitch would likely result in an injury. Bring some small gear for the second pitch .3 BD through .75 would work. Don't expect to find gear between the first two bolts. Aug 4, 2013