GPS: 61.205, -149.252 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Jun 29, 2015
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer
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Description

Lower wall

Getting There

dew mound directions

13 Total Climbs

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Location: Dew Mound - Lower Wall Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Dew Mound - Lower Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
The Itchy and Scratchy Show
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 12
Stonemaster
Sport 2 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 8
Broken Bit
Sport 3 pitches
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Mike L. Boltin
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 8
Chump Monkey Among Us.
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Itchy and Scratchy Show
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Stonemaster
 12
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Broken Bit
 8
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport 3 pitches
Mike L. Boltin
 10
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Chump Monkey Among Us.
 8
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Dew Mound - Lower Wall »

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Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant. May 16, 2016
Could someone please install propane powered mosquito traps to make the base area an "appropriate" and more comfortable belaying area while you are at it? Maybe some "appropriate" signage so the crag is easier to find? And an automatic sun screen that provides "appropriate" shade on hot days for the world class routes at the Dew Mound. Then, and only then will it be "appropriate" for everyone!! Yay!! Shit, gonna need wheelchair access too while you are at it.... That's gonna take some work. Maybe a grant from the Access Fund? A fundraiser at the ARG? Pull all the bolts, replace with 1/2" glue ins every 5 feet, and sell the originals on EBay to fund the appropriatizing" effort? May 19, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
Luckily, Andy, the mosquitoes are at bay so far this year, so I will hold off on the propane deterrent. Someone else already installed signage though I have yet to locate it, because of the 4 times I have been there this season, there were other parties...and the last session, a total of 10 people other than myself. The shade is provided by the canopy as you well know, so no Home Depot run for that is necessary. Bolts are approximately every five feet...so I guess we could upgrade to 5/8 inch glue-in monsters so the rock pulls out with the bolt....just like the feet like to exfoliate themselves but keeping the hands intact. For your crotchety-ass I will start work on a wheelchair ramp, so you can come give me a belay when my partner ditches me.

But, on a more realistic note, not that the above information isn't realistic, the loose shitty talus that was a pain to navigate as it slides around has been restructured to be out of the way for the belayer and arranged in a more Feng Shui inspired environment that you should feel quite at home in...

Cheers and I hope your season keeps going well.

J May 19, 2016
5/8" would be great. Please use titanium. I'll give a 5.13c Mountain Projct Tick chip credit to anyone that can push me all the way to Dew Mound in my wheelchair. Thank you for moving those rocks out of the way of the rock climbers access to the rock climbs. That really needed to be done. Its amazing anyone was able to safely belay there for the last 15 years! It's a real bummer to hear the crowds are jamming up the flat spots at the Dew Mound. Maybe it's time for one of the stewards to bolt in a nice ugly pull up bar somewhere at the base area! Then all the folks waiting in line to climb can stay nice and warmed up for the send.
Too bad there is nowhere else to climb in Eagle River... May 19, 2016