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Routes in Dew Mound - Lower Wall

Broken Bit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Center Lane Closed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chump Monkey Among Us. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crows nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirt Burger T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Itchy and Scratchy Show, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Landfall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mike L. Boltin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Princess S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stand and Deliver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stonemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Workman's Comp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 47 ft
FA: Eddie Phay
Page Views: 185 total, 4/month
Shared By: Jared LaVacque on May 20, 2014
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

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Description

Bouldery upward left trending route, that moves into Chump's crux. This bouldery line uses non-down pulling holds, via a series of side-pulls and gastons after the first bolt, making one last long move off the best holds of the crux, before getting to Chumps 4th bolt and a nice rest and then doing the .12b crux of Chump Monkey.

Location

Once you are at "Stone Master" walk right, to the dark gray wall. Michael Boltin' is to the left of Chump and is visibly tall. Chump, terminates above the obvious ledge, and Stand and Deliver is the obvious left traverse that finishes into Chump.

On the Main Wall, just right of Chump Monkey Among Us. Follow a three bolt upward and left traverse, to join Chump Monkey Among Us, and then finish the crux of Chump.

Protection

Draws and Rope

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
The crux is approximately V6 and on the stiff side of it, uses a series of 7 side-pulls and nothing down-pulling until after the finishing deadpoint. The feet are less than ideal going through the crux, especially the left ones. Pre-clip the 2nd bolt. There is no plausible clipping stance and the first functions more as a directional to keep the rope from between your legs. The first is easy to clip and is reachable as soon as you step off the ground. Falling with the 2nd clipped is safe but will still bring you close to the ground, especially if you botch the post-crux deadpoint. Jul 27, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant. May 16, 2016
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
 
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
 
I think Keenan and I are getting on this, this weekend. Chris B says it's super bouldery...so I am looking forward to it, then get somewhat of a consensus on it.
Either way, it finishes in Chump's crux, so should be kinda relentless until the rest right before Chump's crux. May 21, 2014
sasquatch  
 
When I talked with Eddie a couple of weeks ago, he thought this was more likely 12c. May 21, 2014