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Routes in Dew Mound - Lower Wall

Broken Bit S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Center Lane Closed S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chump Monkey Among Us. S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crows nest T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dirt Burger T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Itchy and Scratchy Show, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Landfall T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Mike L. Boltin S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nubian Princess S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Stand and Deliver S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stonemaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Workman's Comp S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eddie Phay or Andy Hoyt, you pick.
Page Views: 1,042 total, 20/month
Shared By: L. Von Dommelheimer on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route


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Description

Directly right of Mike L. Boltin. Climb large holds through bolt three where the climbing gets significantly harder or at least the holds get smaller. Climb small but positive crimps towards the fifth bolt. There was once a very good left hand side pull for a move to a jug to clip the 5th bolt. But I broke it off. Then I broke it off again. Dumb. Most of the bolts could be a few inches lower for hanging draws.

Location

from the path head right past Mike L. Boltin,

Protection

5 bolts

Photos

Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b
As of 5/16/16, the belaying area below Mike L. Boltin, Chump Monkey and Stand and Deliver has been cleaned up and appropriate platforms have been restructured out of the loose talus at the base, making belaying and supporting more climbing parties more pleasant. May 16, 2016
Yellow Metolius 4 cam. The gear is definitely good. It has held multiple falls by multiple climbers. If you think it's bad, learn how to place better gear. Or clip the retro bolts placed years after the first lead. The 2nd and 3rd bolt were hand drilled on lead. I chose the climb the crux protected by logical, natural gear placements rather than HAND drill two more bolts. Laziness, not an ego trip, were my motivation. My style was my choice. Your style is your choice. And sure, you are welcome for all the hard work done by others and myself to develop the routes at the crag. And the name of the route, given to it by the first person to lead it is "Ignorance is Bliss".
It's rather disrespectful of folks to change the name of a route specifically to disparage its first ascensionists.
Style matters. Jul 17, 2015
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.12a
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.12a
Lame as a gear lead. Don't get me wrong, it's a fun ego trip to plug a shaky stopper and a bad c3 and then run it out for 25ft. That being said, the last two bolts are definay needed for all but the craziest climbers.

By the way, nice send Sasha! FFA? Jul 17, 2015
Make it happen. Style matters. To some people anyway. May 31, 2015
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.12a
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.12a
Sick! Might just need to make that happen again. May 31, 2015
The first lead of the route was protected by the first three bolts and 2 pieces of gear at the horizontal. May 31, 2015
rock junkie
CO/WY
  5.12a
rock junkie   CO/WY
  5.12a
Fun climb, found myself wishing the face kept going for a bit. This one seems to have cleaned up ok though we did climb it right after the choss fest to the left. Does anyone know if it has gone on gear? There are gear "placements" that could make for a fun time... May 30, 2015
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b
I propose that this discussion is closed at this point....until another subject comes up. Cheers. May 24, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
I would propose that we don't use climbs from different areas as comparison. Weekender and Wiener Lake climb very different from Dew Mound. If Mike L Boltin is .12a I would also agree that chump is .12a as the cruxes feel about the same. Either way its grid bolted choss so who cares. May 22, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Alternately, Mike L. Boltin is 5.11d/12a and about as hard as Chump. And something like the Shaft is miles different and SIGNIFICANTLY harder. Of course everyone is entitled to their own thoughts on a rating. May 22, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b
Touche Todd...not getting into that again :) Lang, for routes of similar length and grade, Weekender is comparable, and Onomatopoeia(etc) is .12a and easier. I agree with consensus, that's the point( or rather one of) MP. May 22, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
For pure entertainment lets go with the first one... May 21, 2014
sasquatch
  5.12b
sasquatch  
  5.12b
Which FA? :) May 21, 2014
L. Von Dommelheimer
Anchorage
 
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
 
Shouldn't confirmation be an average of the people who climbed and rated the route? This is 12a compared to other Alaskan 12a's. May 21, 2014
Jared LaVacque
Anchorage/Grand Junction
  5.12b
Jared LaVacque   Anchorage/Grand Junction  
  5.12b
The climb is a confirmed .12b when it was a FA, by it's FA party. Subsequently, holds have broken, and is now b/c to c. Make no mistake, this is not a .12a. May 20, 2014
C. Williams
the Climber Cave
C. Williams   the Climber Cave
Was not psyched to dodge holds as a belayer. Wear a helmet! Sep 16, 2013