Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Power Dome

A Little Nukey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aplodonita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Divorce Quartz T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Don't Go Changin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Go Runout and Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hannaramic S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Paraclete, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trivial Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warm Black Knobs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Courtright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wichita Lineman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 6 pitches
FA: James Weger, Greg Vernon, Mike Baca, & Tom Jeter (07-87)
Page Views: 1,017 total, 19/month
Shared By: Eric "Pig" Varley on Aug 12, 2013
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is a fantastic and fairly sustained route that follows a black streak to the top of Power Dome. It begins on the same ledge as Welcome to Courtright, on the far end (climber's right) of the ledge system.

With a 70m rope, pitches 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 can be easily linked.

Pitch 1 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Start up a short right facing feature to the first bolt 20-25 feet off the ground. Continue up small holds and friction moves to a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10a, 5 bolts): Follow the black streak up the face. This pitch starts at about 5.8 and gradually increases in difficulty. Ends at a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 3 (5.10b/c, 1 bolt + pro): Move up to a higher ledge and clip the first and only bolt. Feet and hand holds begin to disappear as you approach obvious crux of the route. Be aware that the leader can hit the small ledge below the first bolt if they blow the moves. Once past the crux, it becomes a jug fest to the next anchor. Note: there is a 5.8 escape traverse to the left after the 1st bolt if the crux moves prove difficult. Ends on top of the roof/flake system at a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 4 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Continue following the black streak. This is the most sustained pitch of the climb. Stay aware of your foot holds and be prepared for a few hand-foot matches and single leg presses. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor

Pitch 5 (5.8, all pro): A few moderate slab moves bring you to the typical Power Dome solution pockets. Bring your tricams and look out for sling throughs. Ends a 2 bolt anchor.

Pitch 6 (5.7, all pro): The dome begins to curve off to an easier angle. Continue following the solution pockets to the top. A natural anchor is required at the top (pro from 0.5-2")

Location

To find the start of the route, look up to a roof system about 300 feet up. This roof system is to climber's left of the giant flake on A Little Nukey. On the right side of this roof, there is a black streak running down to the base of the wall. The Paraclete follows this streak.

Protection

Cams from 0.5-2" for the final anchor. Bring Tricams and additional slings for the solution pockets.

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
FA: James Weger, Greg Vernon, Mike Baca, & Tom Jeter (07-87). Dec 23, 2014