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> Power Dome
> W Face
The Paraclete
5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 10
votes
Routes in West Face
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"C.C.A" T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Little Nukey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aplodontia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Castle Bravo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Esto Power T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Go Runout and Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Hannaramic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ohm Sweet Ohm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paraclete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Powerline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smegmathon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sushi Dreams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tic-Tac-Toe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trivial Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welcome to Courtright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wichita Lineman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches |
| FA: | James Weger, Greg Vernon, Mike Baca, & Tom Jeter (07-87) |
| Page Views: | 2,287 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | Eric "Pig" Varley on Aug 12, 2013 |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Area closed until June 30th, 2023
Details
Sierra National Forest has extended a large closure covering many popular Western Sierra climbing areas including Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Courtright Reservoir etc.
Area is closed until at least June 30th
fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…
Area is closed until at least June 30th
fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…
Description
This is a fantastic and fairly sustained route that follows a black streak to the top of Power Dome. It begins on the same ledge as Welcome to Courtright, on the far end (climber's right) of the ledge system.
With a 70m rope, pitches 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 can be easily linked.
Pitch 1 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Start up a short right facing feature to the first bolt 20-25 feet off the ground. Continue up small holds and friction moves to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10a, 5 bolts): Follow the black streak up the face. This pitch starts at about 5.8 and gradually increases in difficulty. Ends at a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 3 (5.10b/c, 1 bolt + pro): Move up to a higher ledge and clip the first and only bolt. Feet and hand holds begin to disappear as you approach obvious crux of the route. Be aware that the leader can hit the small ledge below the first bolt if they blow the moves. Once past the crux, it becomes a jug fest to the next anchor. Note: there is a 5.8 escape traverse to the left after the 1st bolt if the crux moves prove difficult. Ends on top of the roof/flake system at a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Continue following the black streak. This is the most sustained pitch of the climb. Stay aware of your foot holds and be prepared for a few hand-foot matches and single leg presses. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 5 (5.8, all pro): A few moderate slab moves bring you to the typical Power Dome solution pockets. Bring your tricams and look out for sling throughs. Ends a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 6 (5.7, all pro): The dome begins to curve off to an easier angle. Continue following the solution pockets to the top. A natural anchor is required at the top (pro from 0.5-2")
With a 70m rope, pitches 1 and 2, and 3 and 4 can be easily linked.
Pitch 1 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Start up a short right facing feature to the first bolt 20-25 feet off the ground. Continue up small holds and friction moves to a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10a, 5 bolts): Follow the black streak up the face. This pitch starts at about 5.8 and gradually increases in difficulty. Ends at a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 3 (5.10b/c, 1 bolt + pro): Move up to a higher ledge and clip the first and only bolt. Feet and hand holds begin to disappear as you approach obvious crux of the route. Be aware that the leader can hit the small ledge below the first bolt if they blow the moves. Once past the crux, it becomes a jug fest to the next anchor. Note: there is a 5.8 escape traverse to the left after the 1st bolt if the crux moves prove difficult. Ends on top of the roof/flake system at a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.10a, 4 bolts): Continue following the black streak. This is the most sustained pitch of the climb. Stay aware of your foot holds and be prepared for a few hand-foot matches and single leg presses. Ends at a 2 bolt anchor
Pitch 5 (5.8, all pro): A few moderate slab moves bring you to the typical Power Dome solution pockets. Bring your tricams and look out for sling throughs. Ends a 2 bolt anchor.
Pitch 6 (5.7, all pro): The dome begins to curve off to an easier angle. Continue following the solution pockets to the top. A natural anchor is required at the top (pro from 0.5-2")
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