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Routes in Power Dome

A Little Nukey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aplodonita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Divorce Quartz T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Don't Go Changin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Go Runout and Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hannaramic S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Paraclete, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trivial Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warm Black Knobs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Courtright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wichita Lineman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger & Fazio-Rhicard, July 1985
Page Views: 539 total · 6/month
Shared By: John Layko Torkleson on Jan 25, 2011 with updates
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Four Pitches: .9, 10a, .9, .6.

"The route climbs the dome between the two most prominent water streaks.

1) My topo shows it starting between the two center most water stains on a ledge just above a left angling roof with the first pitch having 3 bolts and ending under a roof with a two bolt belay.

2) Follow holds right then back left to short right facing corner then a little left and up to a roof with another right facing corner past a bolt, then up to a one bolt belay above a dike.

3) Wander around until you can work back left to another short right facing corner then belay at a right facing corner with a single bolt.

4) Pretty much straight up from here. Must not be too hard as there are no bolts." (1Eric Rhicard)

Location

Power Dome West Face (Lost Canyon Wall).The route starts immediately left of Welcome to Courtright.

Protection

not much info on protection. Grabbed this description from Rock and Ice #30

Photos

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J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Awesome!! Thanks for posting Eric. May 9, 2011
"The route climbs the dome between the two most prominent water streaks." That is what I wrote in my notes. My topo shows it starting between the two center most water stains on a ledge just above a left angling roof with the first pitch having 3 bolts and ending under a roof with a two bolt belay. 2)follow holds right then back left to short right facing corner then a little left and up to a roof with another right facing corner past a bolt, then up to a one bolt belay above a dike. 3)Wander around until you can work back left to another short right facing corner then belay at a right facing corner with a single bolt. Pretty much straight up from here. Must not be too hard as there are no bolts. Herb lead 1 and 3 and I lead 2 and 4. Hope this helps. May 9, 2011
First climb and first new route of many I did with Herb Laeger. We put up dozens of climbs all over the Sierras after doing this climb. We swapped leads hand drilling the few bolts we put in. I remember that my new fires were so tight I lead the last pitch standing on my heels and that is another reason there are so few bolts. I just wanted the hell my feet felt to end. I will try to add more later, but now I need to get changed so I can take mom out for breakfast. May 8, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Hi John,
Thanks for adding this route. It would be nice if you could add some additional info, i.e. stating that the route is on Power Dome is not sufficient information to find the climb. It kinda sounds like you don't have any info because you didn't do the route. In general (though not always), it is best to have actually climbed the route before posting it. That way, you can include details about finding the route, descending the route, protection, etc.
Cheers. Jan 28, 2011

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