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GPS: 37.07326, -118.96366
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Dave Daly on Nov 28, 2011 · Updates
Admins: Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

This dome is the hallmark of Courtright and rightly so. Power Dome hosts some bold friction climbs with the occasional solution pocket for psychological comfort. A word of caution: most routes are runout like the routes in Tuolumne! Rest assured, Power Dome claims several classics: 'Helms Deep' (.10c R), 'Welcome To Courtright' (5.10a), 'A Little Nukey' (5.9-), Eve Laeger's route 'Esto Power' (.10d) and 'Consider Me Gone', a sphincter tighting 5.10c....tough for it's grade!

Getting There

Located in the Helms Canyon, one can spot this dome to the right from Courtright Rd. (upon entering the area).

36 Total Climbs

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Location: Power Dome Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Power Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 6
● Ohm Sweet Ohm
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
W Face
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
● Wichita Lineman
Trad, Alpine
W Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 62
● A Little Nukey
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
W Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
● Welcome to Courtright
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
W Face
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
● Racing Stripes (Yipes Stripes)
Sport, Alpine
E Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
● Hannaramic
Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
W Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● Don't Go Changin'
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
E Face
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
● C'mon Now
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
E Face
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
● The Paraclete
Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
W Face
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 3
● Helm's Deep
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
W Face
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 17
● Smegmathon
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
W Face
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 3
● Warm Black Knobs
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
E Face
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
 5
● Esto Power
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
W Face
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
● Powerline
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
W Face
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 3
● Vertical Smile
Trad, Alpine
E Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Ohm Sweet Ohm W Face
 6
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Wichita Lineman W Face
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
● A Little Nukey W Face
 62
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Welcome to Courtright W Face
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Racing Stripes (Yipes Stripes) E Face
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, Alpine
● Hannaramic W Face
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, Alpine 6 pitches
● Don't Go Changin' E Face
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● C'mon Now E Face
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● The Paraclete W Face
 10
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 6 pitches
● Helm's Deep W Face
 3
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Smegmathon W Face
 17
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Warm Black Knobs E Face
 3
5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Esto Power W Face
 5
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
● Powerline W Face
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
● Vertical Smile E Face
 3
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Alpine
More Classic Climbs in Power Dome »

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Photos

From the Geology overlook walk to the NW shoulder of Power Dome. Walk a long ledge until you find a rap station. You should be directly above a large steel cable on the slabs just above the creek. We did 3 raps with a single 70 m rope.
From the Geology overlook walk to the NW should…
 1
Power Dome from the approach road, Courtright Reservoir
Power Dome from the approach road, Courtright R…
 1
classic power dome
classic power dome
 2
On the South Face of Power Dome; this is the starts of Divorce Quartz. Bolts are in the grey granite, starting in the "tongue" of granite in the center of the photo and staying almost straight up. Anchors are up past the small tree. Standard rack of cams useful to augment the bolts
On the South Face of Power Dome; this is the st…
 1
Descent ledge to rappel anchors. I am standing near just up and climber's left of the 2 bolt anchor.
Descent ledge to rappel anchors. I am standing…
 1
Somewhat high-res image of the West Face of Power Dome.
Somewhat high-res image of the West Face of Pow…
 1
Power Dome from the top of the dam, Courtright Reservoir
Power Dome from the top of the dam, Courtright…
 1
Divorce Quartz
Divorce Quartz
 0
dam as seen from the top of power dome
dam as seen from the top of power dome
 0
The summit of Power Dome catches the final rays of sunlight.
The summit of Power Dome catches the final rays…
 0
The author enjoys an area classic, 'A Little Nukey', Power Dome (5.9-)....in a pair Mountain Masters no less!
The author enjoys an area classic, 'A Little Nu…
 0

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