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Routes in Power Dome

A Little Nukey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aplodonita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Divorce Quartz T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Don't Go Changin' T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Go Runout and Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hannaramic S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Paraclete, The T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trivial Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Warm Black Knobs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Welcome to Courtright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wichita Lineman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Herb Laeger & Greg Vernon, July 1985
Page Views: 3,004 total, 47/month
Shared By: Bryan G on Aug 6, 2012
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is a stellar route that follows a prominent black streak near the center of Power Dome. The 5.9 cruxes are well protected but there are some big runouts on 5.7 and easier terrain, making this route a bit more challenging than A Little Nukey. For approach information, see the A Little Nukey page. (Approach option #2, rapping in on the dome's left flank, is by far the best option btw).

To find the start of the route look for a super obvious 90-degree angled roof/corner about 150ft up. There is a horizontal white dike crossing this feature and a large vertical black streak running down the wall to its left. Welcome to Courtright more or less follows the left side of this black water-streak.

Pitch 1: Start at a smaller black streak to the left of the largest black streak that reaches the approach ledge. It's 5.4 solution pockets up to a small ledge about 40ft up. Above the ledge is the first bolt which protects a couple 5.7/5.8 moves. Climb up and left on more easy terrain to a flake (mediocre pro here) and then climb up to a dike. Traverse right on the dike (5.6 R) to a bolted belay anchor.

Pitch 2: Climb up and right past a couple bolts to a bulge. Pass the bulge (5.8/5.9) and then pass one more bolt before climbing up and left on juggy 5.2 to a bolted anchor at a stance atop a flake/ledge.

Pitch 3: More excellent face climbing trending slightly right, but mostly straight up. There's some 5.9 in there but there are several bolts (5 I think) on this pitch. Belay at another bolted anchor at a small stance on a dike (there is an off-route anchor about 40ft to the right of this one, next to a flake)

Pitch 4: Follow the left-most black streak straight up past two more bolts (the first one is good, the second is a rusty 1/4"). The climbing here is lower angle than the pitches below and is mostly easy 5th with a few moves of 5.6 or 5.7 in there.

Pitch 5: Climb straight over the bulge on buckets and solution pockets (fun!) and then follow more buckets up the black streak to the top.

Protection

Pro to 1" and a half dozen quickdraws. Tricams might be useful for protecting some of the pockets and reduce the runouts on easier terrain (but they won't help for the 5.6 runout at the top of the first pitch).

Photos

Tricamus
Culver City, CA
 
Tricamus   Culver City, CA
 
A few tricams will cut down the distance between some of the bolts, but often not on the harder sections. Fantastic route. Aug 23, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
FA: Herb Laeger & Greg Vernon - July 1985. Jun 22, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
  5.9
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
  5.9
Very cool route. No slab climbing. It's all on awesome holds and the rock offers great friction if needed. Very friendly climbing. Link the last two pitches. Sep 16, 2013
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
  5.9+ R
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
  5.9+ R
Great route description, and the topo picture is accurate. The runouts on this route are definitely no harder than 5.7. When in doubt, get high feet, step up, and a good hand hold will be there. The hard moves are the crux on pitch 2 and the few crux moves on tightly spaced bolts on pitch 3. If you can climb Nukey, and don't get pysched out on runout terrain, this rotue is a must do. Nov 5, 2012