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Welcome to Courtright
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3.8 from 28
votes
Routes in West Face
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"C.C.A" T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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A Little Nukey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Aplodontia T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Castle Bravo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Esto Power T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Go Runout and Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X |
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Hannaramic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Helm's Deep T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Ohm Sweet Ohm T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Paraclete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Powerline T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Smegmathon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sushi Dreams T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Tic-Tac-Toe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Trivial Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Welcome to Courtright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wichita Lineman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 700 ft (212 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Herb Laeger & Greg Vernon, July 1985 |
| Page Views: | 6,438 total · 50/month |
| Shared By: | Bryan G on Aug 6, 2012 · Updates |
| Admins: | Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is a stellar route that follows a prominent black streak near the center of Power Dome. The 5.9 cruxes are well protected, but there are some big runouts on 5.7 and easier terrain, making this route a bit more challenging than A Little Nukey. For approach information, see the A Little Nukey page. (Approach option #2, rapping in on the dome's left flank, is by far the best option btw).
To find the start of the route look for a super obvious 90-degree angled roof/corner about 150ft up. There is a horizontal white dike crossing this feature and a large vertical black streak running down the wall to its left. Welcome to Courtright more or less follows the left side of this black water-streak.
Pitch 1: Start at a smaller black streak to the left of the largest black streak that reaches the approach ledge. It's 5.4 solution pockets up to a small ledge about 40ft up. Above the ledge is the first bolt which protects a couple 5.7/5.8 moves. Climb up and left on more easy terrain to a flake (mediocre pro here) and then climb up to a dike. Traverse right on the dike (5.6 R) to a bolted belay anchor.
Pitch 2: Climb up and right past a couple bolts to a bulge. Pass the bulge (5.8/5.9) and then pass one more bolt before climbing up and left on juggy 5.2 to a bolted anchor at a stance atop a flake/ledge.
Pitch 3: More excellent face climbing trending slightly right, but mostly straight up. There's some 5.9 in there, but there are several bolts (5 I think) on this pitch. Belay at another bolted anchor at a small stance on a dike (there is an off-route anchor about 40ft to the right of this one, next to a flake)
Pitch 4: Follow the left-most black streak straight up past two more bolts (the first one is good, the second is a rusty 1/4"). The climbing here is lower angle than the pitches below and is mostly easy 5th with a few moves of 5.6 or 5.7 in there.
Pitch 5: Climb straight over the bulge on buckets and solution pockets (fun!) and then follow more buckets up the black streak to the top.
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