Type: Trad, Alpine, 700 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Kevin Ludwig & Dave Ryan, 1983
Page Views: 199 total · 18/month
Shared By: Eric "Pig" Varley on Aug 2, 2018
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.9, bolts + pro): Easy face climbing through the first 3 bolts to a long left trending flake that takes great pro, then up some moderate friction moves through a few more bolts, up to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.7, all pro): Easy climbing up a left trending ramp that eventually opens up to take pro. The ramp ends at a shallow right facing dihedral that accepts pro. Exit over the dihedral to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10c, all bolts): Clip the first bolt, move through the friction crux to the next bolt, then climb moderate friction through a few more bolts, up to a bolted anchor.
Pitch 4 (5.7, bolts + pro): Climb steep but easy face in the middle of a black water streak. Climb past a few bolts to solution pockets. The pitch ends at a bolted anchor.
Pitch 5 (5.6, all pro): Climb easy solution pockets as the slope of the dome eases off. Find a good place to plug in some pro near the top and make a belay.

Location

From "A Little Nukey", continue down the ramp system to the slabs/ledges below. Walk past a steep section of wall with a small roof system about 20-30 above. The route starts on the well feature buttress to the right of the roof system,

Protection

Cams 0.2" - 2.0", tricams, 10 draws (some alpine for thread throughs)

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