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Routes in West Face

A Little Nukey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Aplodonita T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Esto Power T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Go Runout and Pray T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a X
Hannaramic S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Helm's Deep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Paraclete, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Smegmathon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trivial Pursuit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Welcome to Courtright T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wichita Lineman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Sport, Alpine, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Randy Judycki / Michael Broody/Michael Armstrong
Page Views: 2,478 total · 22/month
Shared By: Randy Judycki on Jul 12, 2009
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

The route is right of The Paraclete or the 2nd route from climbers left of Little Nukey. It is all face climbing on little edges.

"P1 (5.10a, 5-bolts): Looking up from the base of the climb, the crux of the pitch is obvious. Friction and tiny edges get you from bolt 2 to 3. Fairly sustained, probably no moves easier than 5.9.

P2 (5.10b, 9-bolts): The crux is right off the belay, through the 2nd bolt. Have your belayer stand off to the side as there is potential to fall on them if you blow the crux. The remainder of the pitch is stout and consistent, ranging between 5.9 to 5.10a. One of the best pitches I've climbed on Power Dome.

P3 (5.9 PG13, 7 bolts): The climbing eases finally, though it becomes more insecure and heavily reliant on friction climbing. There's a substantial run between bolts 2 and 3, with moves in the 5.8+ to 5.9 range. The climbing eases through a section of jugs, only to throw another 5.9 crux near the end between the last bolt and the anchors.

P4 (5.10a, 7 bolts): We thought it was going to be easy from here... we were wrong. Yet another consistent pitch with an early crux and barely easing climbing thereafter.

P5 (5.7, 3 bolts): Finally, solution pockets galore! This is why you brought your tricams. Keep your eyes open though, there are some bolts near the pockets." (Eric "Pig" Varley)

Location

Courtright reservoir on Powerdome. It is route right of The Paraclete or 2 routes (climbers left) of A Little Nukey.

Protection

It is all bolted with bolted anchors

Photos

Chris Bersbach
Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10b PG13
Chris Bersbach   Arroyo Grande, CA
  5.10b PG13
A stellar, incredibly consistent route. Every one of the first four pitches is worth the price of admission. The bolting is generous, by Power Dome standards, with protection where you need it, but even some of the easier climbing will test your friction prowess.

Hopefully Eric will chime in here with pitch-by-pitch bolt counts, but ten draws and a small assortment of tricams (for the holes on pitch 5) was plenty. My feeling was that the cruxes on the first four pitches clocked in at about 10a, 10b, 9, and 10a; however, all four pitches are game-on from anchor to anchor, rarely letting up until you clip the chains.

This one is only going to get better with more traffic. And as an added bonus, it is RIGHT next to The Paraclete, so you can race your friends to the summit. Nov 10, 2014
Eric "Pig" Varley
Nipomo, CA
  5.10b PG13
Eric "Pig" Varley   Nipomo, CA
  5.10b PG13
This is the most consistently difficult route that I have climbed on Power Dome. Similar to other routes, it is comprised mainly of face climbing on small edges, rails, and slopers. Be prepared for lots of hand-foot matches, mantles, and "trust it and move" smearing. The first 4 pitches are engaging and fairly unrelenting in difficulty. Kudos to the FA party for putting up such a amazing route.

P1 (5.10a, 5-bolts): Looking up from the base of the climb, the crux of the pitch is obvious. Friction and tiny edges get you from bolt 2 to 3. Fairly sustained, probably no moves easier than 5.9.

P2 (5.10b, 9-bolts): The crux is right off the belay, through the 2nd bolt. Have your belayer stand off to the side as there is potential to fall on them if you blow the crux. The remainder of the pitch is stout and consistent, ranging between 5.9 to 5.10a. One of the best pitches I've climbed on Power Dome.

P3 (5.9 PG13, 7 bolts): The climbing eases finally, though it becomes more insecure and heavily reliant on friction climbing. There's a substantial run between bolts 2 and 3, with moves in the 5.8+ to 5.9 range. The climbing eases through a section of jugs, only to throw another 5.9 crux near the end between the last bolt and the anchors.

P4 (5.10a, 7 bolts): We thought it was going to be easy from here... we were wrong. Yet another consistent pitch with an early crux and barely easing climbing thereafter.

P5 (5.7, 3 bolts): Finally, solution pockets galore! This is why you brought your tricams. Keep your eyes open though, there are some bolts near the pockets. Nov 11, 2014
David Delkeskamp
  5.10b PG13
David Delkeskamp  
  5.10b PG13
I agree with Chris and "Pig"; it's a classic line. Themes for me were sustained nature of the climbing (mucho 5.9 and 10a), amount of time spent out above your draws, and the fun moves. Two notes: Great ledge at the top of pitch two (other belays are hanging), and the sun hit us around 10-1030 in September. Go get it! Sep 10, 2015
Randall Judycki
Austin, Texas
Randall Judycki   Austin, Texas
Well my wish came true. I was able to take my daughter Hanna, who the route is named for, up the route on 7/16/2017. This is why I put the route up is to celebrate her birth back in 1999 and then to climb it with her. Had a great day of clouds and cool weather. One more checked off the bucket list!!!!
Thank you all for agreeing that the route is a classic line. Jul 17, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
^^^^ That is flipping awesome Randall!! Can't imagine how fun that must have been. Thanks for the route and for posting. Jul 18, 2017
Aaron Formella
Atascadero, CA
  5.10b R
Aaron Formella   Atascadero, CA
  5.10b R
Awesome route. All the pitches before the holes pitch were engaging and rather sustained with a few sections of juggy climbing to rest the mind. p1 was crux for me. There are at least a few places on the route where you could take a fall onto a ledge, so I'd say R rating. A minimalist rack would be 8 draws and a set of 4 tricams. I would bring a few extra draws (alpines) for the tricams. If you don't have tricams, the holes pitches at the top are easy enough to not require them. There was one spot where a 0.75 BD cam would have been nice for a horizontal crack at the back of a small ledge, but a tricam works there too. Jul 17, 2018
Tommy L-D
  5.10b
Tommy L-D  
  5.10b
Excellent, sustained route, probably the best we climbed at Courtright.

Felt the bolts were always just where they needed to be, sometimes you are above them but never felt sketched out, wouldn't give it PG13 just a normal rating ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Aug 19, 2018

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