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Routes in Talk Buttress

Baby Talk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Empty Rhetoric T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hyperbole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Who's Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notalotatalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Talkin' Smack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Tough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: John Steiger, Brent Manning, August 2013
Page Views: 552 total, 10/month
Shared By: John Steiger on Aug 7, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Hyperbole takes on the series of overhangs between the Direct North Ridge to the left and Look Who's Talking to the right, starting right of the toe of the northeast buttress in the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. The route is a little contrived and has a garden feature or two, but the position is great. Hyperbole and Empty Rhetoric (as well as the neighboring climbs on north face of Dead Snag) rarely see sun regardless of the time of day, so they're tolerable even in the dead heat of summer.

The first five bolts take a line just left of Empty Rhetoric. The climbing is a little devious getting from the first to the second bolt; if you're in the wrong place, it may be hard to clip the second bolt. The climbing eases up once past the second bolt.

Once on the large sloping ledge above the first five bolts, sling one the chains on the anchors for Empty Rhetoric and continue on past five more bolts to a second set of chains. On this latter section, stay out of the corners for a cleaner line, and at the fourth bolt above the sloping ledge, move right over the roof to find the next and last bolt before the final chains.

One can also break up the climb in two pitches by stopping at Empty Rhetoric's chains -- this reduces rope drag somewhat and makes for better visuals for the belayer, but doing it in one pitch is the way to go if longer draws are used.

Location

Follow the approach for Direct North Ridge, but head into the gully/wide chimney ten or so feet and the bolts will be apparent. A 60 meter rope is sufficient to lower from the chains. When pulling the rope, it'll land on huge chockstones in the wide chimney that are loaded with bowling-ball size rocks; beware.

Protection

A dozen or so draws (including some longer ones) and one or two runners.

Photos

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grk10vq

 
grk10vq    
 
good move. Nov 11, 2017
John Steiger  
 
June 2017, Kent: “Have you done that route around the corner to the right of Force of Nature, it sucks – really badly bolted.” Me: “You mean Hyperbole?” Kent: “Oh, is that one of your routes?” Me: “Yeah, probably not one of mine; I’ll check it out” (but thinking, it’s gotta be). Result: Two bolts moved, two added (one providing an alternative and maybe better new start), and lower garden features eliminated – and some relief from a bruised ego. Nov 10, 2017
Brent Manning
salt lake city
 
Brent Manning   salt lake city
 
John, as typical, is overly generous. I held the rope. John did the climb, I could not complete it. I witnessed his first assent but I did not complete the climb. That said it is a very nice route, difficulty low as well as high. I should not be credited with a FA. Aug 9, 2013