Avg: 2 from 4 votes
Routes in Talk Buttress
|Baby Talk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Direct North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Empty Rhetoric T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R|
|Hyperbole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Look Who's Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Notalotatalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Talkin' Smack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Talking Tough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Sport, 110 ft|
|FA:||John Steiger, Brent Manning, August 2013|
|Page Views:||552 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||John Steiger on Aug 7, 2013|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionHyperbole takes on the series of overhangs between the Direct North Ridge to the left and Look Who's Talking to the right, starting right of the toe of the northeast buttress in the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. The route is a little contrived and has a garden feature or two, but the position is great. Hyperbole and Empty Rhetoric (as well as the neighboring climbs on north face of Dead Snag) rarely see sun regardless of the time of day, so they're tolerable even in the dead heat of summer.
The first five bolts take a line just left of Empty Rhetoric. The climbing is a little devious getting from the first to the second bolt; if you're in the wrong place, it may be hard to clip the second bolt. The climbing eases up once past the second bolt.
Once on the large sloping ledge above the first five bolts, sling one the chains on the anchors for Empty Rhetoric and continue on past five more bolts to a second set of chains. On this latter section, stay out of the corners for a cleaner line, and at the fourth bolt above the sloping ledge, move right over the roof to find the next and last bolt before the final chains.
One can also break up the climb in two pitches by stopping at Empty Rhetoric's chains -- this reduces rope drag somewhat and makes for better visuals for the belayer, but doing it in one pitch is the way to go if longer draws are used.
LocationFollow the approach for Direct North Ridge, but head into the gully/wide chimney ten or so feet and the bolts will be apparent. A 60 meter rope is sufficient to lower from the chains. When pulling the rope, it'll land on huge chockstones in the wide chimney that are loaded with bowling-ball size rocks; beware.
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