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Routes in Talk Buttress

Baby Talk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Empty Rhetoric T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hyperbole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Who's Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notalotatalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Talkin' Smack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Tough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 180 ft
FA: ??? 2003?
Page Views: 169 total, 1/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Jun 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: Locate the first bolt about 20' up from the base of the chimney/gully. Climb up past 9 bolts to a 3 bolt anchor, clip the anchor and climb up through a steeper juggy crack. Follow the weakness to the top and a 2 bolt anchor. This is a pretty fun line, with the crux getting to the first bolt, and mostly cruiser climbing after it. Good candidate for someones first trad lead.

Descent: Rappel the route with one rope.

Location

This is located on the E face of the Talk Buttress. Best approach is from the base of the The Dead Snag, and a short hike up the next gully to the west until it ends in a chimney/gully. It also can be approached from the Talk Buttress proper with a downclimb of the chimney below the start of Look Who's Talking.

Protection

A bunch of slings/QDs, and a small rack of nuts and cams to 2".

Photos

John Steiger  
 
Once near the base area for Dead Snag, you can largely avoid the nasty talus and scree field under Over Easy by bearing right on a good trail and up toward the gully/wide chimney leading to the northwest face of Talk Buttress. This is also the approach to Direct North Ridge, Hyperbole, Empty Rhetoric, and the new(ish) lines on the north face of Dead Snag (e.g., Social Engineering). Aug 7, 2013
Hey climbing world, how the TRuck have you been, I am going to make a resurrgence, beware!! The maker of the
"Nick of Time", retrievable rock anchors that are NOT bolts!! Randy Kieliszewski, Contact (rakffa@hotmail.com) will be bringing the "N.O.T.s" back to LIFE, Cheers!! FUTURE FIRST ASCENTS is ALIVE and well! ROCK ON!! Dec 4, 2009
Its been awhile, I need pics? The "big easy" is down canyon, from Seldom Scene!! Dec 4, 2009
I think this is the "The Big Easy" 5.9 ISH , James Garrett how you been, lets climb!! Dec 4, 2009
I stand corrected...thought you were referring to "The Big Easy". Jul 11, 2009
Stevo Habovstack. Is it really only 5.7? Man, you honed dudes are getting hard core! Jul 10, 2009
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7
Requires two rappels to get off if you're rappelling back down to the base of the route.

Also makes a nice 100 foot sport route as the first fixed anchor is at 100 feet.

I wonder who put this up and when? Well painted chain and bolt hangers. Nice hardware, well placed. Washer stacked anchors have gone the way of the dodo though... Jul 10, 2009