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Routes in Talk Buttress

Baby Talk T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Direct North Ridge T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Empty Rhetoric T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Hyperbole S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Look Who's Talking T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Notalotatalk T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Over Easy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Talkin' Smack S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Talking Tough T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 220 total · 1/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

Look Who's Talking is a really great route, despite the vegetation and squeeze chimney as seen below. Start on top of a chockstone, which is just before the dropoff to the left. Make an airy traverse left (ground drops below), but this can be protected with a red alien. Reach the crack and all the plant life. Easily avoid the plants on face holds, passing 2 really bad pitons which aren't worth clipping. Reach a beautiful finger crack which splits a smooth as glass wall, pulling through a roof. Face climb around the squeeze chimney, then finish up on a ledge. Some moderate downclimbing to the left is required to get off.

Protection

Mostly stuff #1 camalot or smaller. Maybe a few bigger pieces. Also, fairly small gear for the anchor.

Photos

Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
Great route - the roof and the squeeze chimney are classic. Be careful on the tricky opening traverse - it is a good idea for the belayer to anchor to something. Jul 7, 2004
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.8
Getting off is a pain. Climbing is otherwise good. Save this one for last. Jul 2, 2011
Greg Gavin
SLC, UT
 
Greg Gavin   SLC, UT
 
Save a .75 for the top anchor. Walk off is to the right (skiers left) I believe. Aug 19, 2013
John Steiger  
 
An alternative way off this is to scramble to the top of the buttress (separated from the rest of the ridge by a distinct notch) and make the rappels from Over Easy's two sets of chain anchors (single 60m works). It'll take a little effort to find the first set of chains, and little more to get back to the base of the route, but worth it to avoid the descent mentioned in the description. Aug 21, 2017

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