Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 321 total · 5/month
Shared By: jim.dangle on Aug 3, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Judgement Day is pretty bad ass for the grade. Although following cracks it climbs more like a sustained face climb. There is no real crux but the climbing is pretty sustained especially through the middle section. It protect pretty well with a decent amount fixed pro supplemented with gear.

This route follows a incipient system of cracks and flakes that trend diagonally from the the center of the wall to the upper left corner. Start at the base of the right facing flake/roof just right of center at the base of wall. Climb this out to a pin and then head up into a left leaning crack where you will eventually find another pin. From there continue trending left across an overlap to a bolt. From the bolt move up into to the base of a large left facing flake (pin) then traverse the small orange colored wall at the top into another left flake system which you follow up and over.


In the center of the Diamond wall locate the obvious right trending flake/roof accessed from a higher ledge than the left side of the wall.

You can see a photo of the start here: mountainproject.com/v/10784…


This is a mixed route with one bolt and several pins. Good supplementary gear is possible but take it when it comes. Protects like a face climb with ultimately good but sometimes a little spaced out protection. Bring small gear. Micros through hand size pieces. Because the route wanders a little pay attention to rope drag and use long slings when necessary.

Belay from trees at the top. You can rap down a gully at the back probably with one (60m) rope. Not sure if one rope will get you down the route itself (we used two ropes but one might have worked).

TR is probably tricky.



This is must do climb for the aspiring hard man or woman especially if you like fine crack and slab climbing because it is neither of those. I was seconding and found it completely and utterly heinous and pumpy. Put me right in my place.


Aug 3, 2013
Troy McCormick
New York
Troy McCormick   New York
Really nice route. Will keep you engaged from start to finish. A single 70 meter rope just reaches for the rappel. Aug 22, 2016
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
Fun climb! A 60M rope will now reach for the lower off/rappel Aug 18, 2018
Sean M  
Got on this one last weekend. Good bolts and rap rings on the top.

I pulled off a few pieces of loose rock from the climb. Route finding is exceedingly difficult on this one, and be prepared for some small runouts, protected by really old pitons. I took whips on a couple of them and they held.

I used shoulder length slings on everything and still had heinous rope drag at the top. Unless you run it out significantly on the traverses, double-length slings should really be used in at least 2 spots. Oct 16, 2018