Elevation: 1,351 ft
GPS: 43.998, -71.2 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,923 total · 143/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details


Awesome cliff with climbs of all grades. South facing and you'll probrably be alone. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is here, that alone should make it a destination.

[additions below by R Hall Oct-Nov 2017]

The individual areas are numbered so that they are listed Left to Right (as you come across them from the approach trail) on the lower level, then Left to Right again on the "Upper" level.

As Mark says (COMMENT below) with the two different levels the cliff is a bit complex, so a crude sketch of the main areas is given below. Hope this helps the "first timers" to this cliff. The blue-dashed lines are "paths/scrambles".
Woodchuck Ledge - (revised)
Woodchuck Ledge
...................................................Sub-Areas named on photo, click to enlarge

Getting There

From Conway, drive Passaconaway road (west, towards the Albany covered bridge) till you see the cliff on the right. Drive around the bend till you see a pull off on right with 3 stones guarding the trail and a Forest Service "No camping..." sign. Hike up the old logging trail about 10-15 min. until you see a side path to the left with a cairn about 6 ft in on the path, take this 10+/- min. and you will reach the far left side of the cliff. The first cliff you come to is overgrown; Gravity cliff is to the right. [Italic is updated info, Oct 2017, RHall Admin.]

Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.

Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Woodchuck Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Weather Averages

Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
This is a crag that could really use a good map showing the various walls and approaches. It is a fairly complicated cliff.

I've only visited this cliff once to date, but liked it. The jumbled boulder scree field below seemed like a mini version of Cannon's (much smaller, not heinous), which gave it a little alpine feeling. There was also more rock than I expected. My impression was of a good crag in a great setting. It looked to me like most of the cliff could use some TLC, upgrading old anchors and some scrubbing, but worthy of it. Be prepared for old school protection and loose rock on some of the routes. It looked to me like plenty of potential for new routing if you are in to that and willing do the work. Sep 1, 2011
matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
I agree Mark. There is a lot of climbing here. With some TLC you could spend the day at Woodchuck and crush all or many of the routes for a really rad circuit. Sep 7, 2011
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
You guys should try Steamroller- way good Sep 7, 2011
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
I broke this cliff into areas to organize and sorted the routes. If anyone feels up to writing good descriptions and directions to some or all of the walls, please let me know and I can turn them over to you. Otherwise I will work on them slowly as I get to know them better. Oct 14, 2012
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This place is really great. It's a fun outing, with lots of climbs. The area at the top of the mountain is way cool, with climber cairns leading the way to a firepit lookout and all sorts of downlo camping spots. So gorgeous and remote. Oct 23, 2015
Eric Bluemn
Worcester, MA
Eric Bluemn   Worcester, MA  
There is a raptor closure through 8/1/17 for routes on/above the caterpillar wall to the main wall. Far right main wall routes are reportedly still open. Jun 19, 2017