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Woodchuck Ledge Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Woodchuck Ledge

1. The Gravity Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

2. The Jurassic Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

3. The Caterpillar Wall 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

4. The Diamond Wall 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

5. The Main Cliff 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5

6. The Zonkers Wall - upper level 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8

7. The Playground - upper level 7 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

8. The Upper Tier - upper level 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0

Elevation:	1,351 ft
GPS:	43.998, -71.2 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	39,257 total · 264/month
Shared By:	nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemou…

Description

Awesome cliff with climbs of all grades. South facing and you'll probrably be alone. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is here, that alone should make it a destination.

[additions below by R Hall Oct-Nov 2017]

The individual areas are numbered so that they are listed Left to Right (as you come across them from the approach trail) on the lower level, then Left to Right again on the "Upper" level.

As Mark says (COMMENT below) with the two different levels the cliff is a bit complex, so a crude sketch of the main areas is given below. Hope this helps the "first timers" to this cliff. The blue-dashed lines are "paths/scrambles".

Woodchuck Ledge - (revised)

Woodchuck Ledge
...................................................Sub-Areas named on photo, click to enlarge

Getting There

From Conway, drive Passaconaway road (west, towards the Albany covered bridge) till you see the cliff on the right and pass an old riverside parking/picnic area on the left. Drive around the bend till you see a pull off on right with 3 stones guarding the trail and a "No parking on the pavement" sign. Hike up the old logging trail about 10-15 min. until the trail levels off, thins out, and you start seeing old red blazes. Follow the red blazes, which will trend uphill and right, and you'll arrive at the far left end of the cliff. The first cliff you come to is overgrown; Gravity cliff is to the right. [Italic is updated info, Oct 2017, RHall Admin.]

Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.

Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Woodchuck Ledge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 10 ● Zanzibar Trad 2 pitches 5. The Main Cliff
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a 6 ● Roger's Spire Trad 3. The Caterpillar Wall
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 16 ● Firebird Trad 2 pitches 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 22 ● Ace of Spades Trad 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 10 ● Queen of Hearts Trad 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 9 ● Judgement Day Trad 4. The Diamond Wall
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 32 ● Screaming Yellow Zonkers Crack Trad 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Zonked Out Trad 6. The Zonkers Wall -…
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 4 ● Steamroller Trad 3. The Caterpillar Wall