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Woodchuck Ledge Rock Climbing
| Elevation: | 1,351 ft |
| GPS: | 43.998, -71.2 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 15,392 total · 136/month |
| Shared By: | nhclimber on Apr 27, 2009 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall |
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
The USFS issued a temporary closure due to nesting peregrine falcons. The closure should last from April through July. For more info, see fs.usda.gov/alerts/whitemou…
Description
Awesome cliff with climbs of all grades. South facing and you'll probrably be alone. Screaming Yellow Zonkers is here, that alone should make it a destination.
[additions below by R Hall Oct-Nov 2017]
The individual areas are numbered so that they are listed Left to Right (as you come across them from the approach trail) on the lower level, then Left to Right again on the "Upper" level.
As Mark says (COMMENT below) with the two different levels the cliff is a bit complex, so a crude sketch of the main areas is given below. Hope this helps the "first timers" to this cliff. The blue-dashed lines are "paths/scrambles".
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Woodchuck Ledge - (revised) ![]()
Woodchuck Ledge
...................................................Sub-Areas named on photo, click to enlarge
[additions below by R Hall Oct-Nov 2017]
The individual areas are numbered so that they are listed Left to Right (as you come across them from the approach trail) on the lower level, then Left to Right again on the "Upper" level.
As Mark says (COMMENT below) with the two different levels the cliff is a bit complex, so a crude sketch of the main areas is given below. Hope this helps the "first timers" to this cliff. The blue-dashed lines are "paths/scrambles".
...................................................Sub-Areas named on photo, click to enlarge
Getting There
From Conway, drive Passaconaway road (west, towards the Albany covered bridge) till you see the cliff on the right. Drive around the bend till you see a pull off on right with 3 stones guarding the trail and a Forest Service "No camping..." sign. Hike up the old logging trail about 10-15 min. until you see a side path to the left with a cairn about 6 ft in on the path, take this 10+/- min. and you will reach the far left side of the cliff. The first cliff you come to is overgrown; Gravity cliff is to the right. [Italic is updated info, Oct 2017, RHall Admin.]
Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.
Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.
Coming from the Kanc, the pull-off is about 2.6 miles down Passaconaway Rd. from the Albany Covered Bridge, on your left.
Work your way right for the various walls in order: Gravity, Jurassic, Zonkers (left up a gully a little from the Caterpillar), Caterpillar, The Diamond, and the Main Wall. The Playground is reached by taking the gully past Zonkers and continuing to scramble up and left a few minutes. The upper Tier is the left side of the Main Wall, above the Caterpillar and Diamond.
Classic Climbing Routes at Woodchuck Ledge
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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Photos
6 Comments
More About Woodchuck Ledge
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Guidebooks (2)
New England
I've only visited this cliff once to date, but liked it. The jumbled boulder scree field below seemed like a mini version of Cannon's (much smaller, not heinous), which gave it a little alpine feeling. There was also more rock than I expected. My impression was of a good crag in a great setting. It looked to me like most of the cliff could use some TLC, upgrading old anchors and some scrubbing, but worthy of it. Be prepared for old school protection and loose rock on some of the routes. It looked to me like plenty of potential for new routing if you are in to that and willing do the work. Sep 1, 2011
West Campton, New Hampshire
southern colo
New England
Asheville, NC
Worcester, MA