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Routes in West Slabs
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1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 35 ft (11 m) |
| FA: | a rodent |
| Page Views: | 1,467 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is an obvious left-facing dihedral in a recess on the right side of the West Slabs. It may be used to access some of the upper right pitches. It may be linked with the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow route. It sort of reminded me of P1 of Bihedral in Boulder Canyon.
Pull aboard with face holds and the dihedral. From a good stance, you can get a #3 Camalot. The climbing gets a tiny bit more interesting as you work up into the apex. Another #3 Camalot or a #3.5 Camalot works. At the apex, you may find yourself a bit out from your last piece if you don't pay attention. A #0.2 Camalot fits in a crack on the right. A 48 inch sling works on a horn on the right. Gain the ledge above. There is a 2 bolt anchor probably 30 feet to the right.
Pull aboard with face holds and the dihedral. From a good stance, you can get a #3 Camalot. The climbing gets a tiny bit more interesting as you work up into the apex. Another #3 Camalot or a #3.5 Camalot works. At the apex, you may find yourself a bit out from your last piece if you don't pay attention. A #0.2 Camalot fits in a crack on the right. A 48 inch sling works on a horn on the right. Gain the ledge above. There is a 2 bolt anchor probably 30 feet to the right.
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