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Routes in West Slabs

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: a rodent
Page Views: 719 total · 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is an obvious left-facing dihedral in a recess on the right side of the West Slabs. It may be used to access some of the upper right pitches. It may be linked with the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow route. It sort of reminded me of P1 of Bihedral in Boulder Canyon.

Pull aboard with face holds and the dihedral. From a good stance, you can get a #3 Camalot. The climbing gets a tiny bit more interesting as you work up into the apex. Another #3 Camalot or a #3.5 Camalot works. At the apex, you may find yourself a bit out from your last piece if you don't pay attention. A #0.2 Camalot fits in a crack on the right. A 48 inch sling works on a horn on the right. Gain the ledge above. There is a 2 bolt anchor probably 30 feet to the right.

Location [Suggest Change]

This ascends an obvious, left-facing dihedral in a recess.

Protection [Suggest Change]

#3 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot, #0.2 Camalot, and a 48" sling worked. Extra #3 Camalots might be nice for the 5.6 leader.

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