Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: a rodent
Page Views: 788 total · 12/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is an obvious left-facing dihedral in a recess on the right side of the West Slabs. It may be used to access some of the upper right pitches. It may be linked with the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow route. It sort of reminded me of P1 of Bihedral in Boulder Canyon.

Pull aboard with face holds and the dihedral. From a good stance, you can get a #3 Camalot. The climbing gets a tiny bit more interesting as you work up into the apex. Another #3 Camalot or a #3.5 Camalot works. At the apex, you may find yourself a bit out from your last piece if you don't pay attention. A #0.2 Camalot fits in a crack on the right. A 48 inch sling works on a horn on the right. Gain the ledge above. There is a 2 bolt anchor probably 30 feet to the right.

Location

This ascends an obvious, left-facing dihedral in a recess.

Protection

#3 Camalot, a #3.5 Camalot, #0.2 Camalot, and a 48" sling worked. Extra #3 Camalots might be nice for the 5.6 leader.

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