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Routes in West Slabs

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 473 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This may be the leftmost of the obvious routes on the right side of West Slabs (there is a stray bolt to the left of the 3rd bolt). It begins above raspberry bushes.

P1. Start up blocky, slopey terrain to a bolt. Aim for another couple bolts above carefully pulling on a few fragile flakes. Pull up under a small bulge. Clip a couple bolts, and pull over. Angle right and up to an intermediate 2 bolt anchor (no rap rings & right one needs a wrench to tighten it). Continue up past 2 more bolts to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor and rappable hangers, 85'.

P2. Climb moderate terrain with abundant horizontals to a 2 bolt anchor left of a tree, 5.5, 55'.

You can continue upward with another pitch, 5.9, gear, 140'. This seems so dissimilar to the lower pitches and had enough cleaning to do that it is likely a different route.

Location

This may be the leftmost route of the right side of the crag. Its start appears blocky.

Protection

6 bolts, orange Mastercam, #0.4, #0.75, & #1 Camalots will cover it.

Photos

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Pitch 1 is real nice. Would continue to the 2nd of 3 sets of anchors. One cannot see the 3rd set from the second set. Aug 9, 2014