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Routes in West Slabs

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tod Anderson and Richard Wright, 1990
Page Views: 717 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on May 14, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

BLM had been partially developed well before 1990, but this history has been nearly impossible to uncover. BLM got its sardonic name from that arch government worker and walking radiation hazard, Tod Anderson. It was fully bolted in the summer of 1990 and is presently the best line on the crag.

Climbing on BLM begins on the vertical to just-ever-so-slightly-past-vertical main face on the left side of the crag and behind a large conifer. Thin and technical all the way, BLM has a tricky crux 15 or so feet below the anchor. Very fingery and with bad feet, lousy really. Two stars for the good stone, high degree of continuity, and thoughtful climbing. Worth the drive on a hot summer day.

Protection

QDs only. This 70 foot route needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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