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Routes in West Slabs

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 308 total · 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is a good route that has some fun features to ascend. It is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral.

Move up into the dihedral. A small cam (yellow Alien or TCU size) works before the 1st bolt. Move out left under a cool, shallow dihedral somewhat reminiscent of something Yosemite-like clipping 2 bolts & a Bugaboo pin. Pull past a tiny bulge onto a slab that actually has real glacier polish reminiscent of Tuolumne. This slab can run with water. Climb past 4 bolts onto easier terrain. Clip one more bolt and gain the ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.

There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above. You can climb with trad protection on 5.5 terrain.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral just above a raspberry patch.

Protection [Suggest Change]

7 bolts, 1 pin, 1 yellow Alien/TCU.

Photos

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Nice pitch!! 2.5 stars! I never saw the piton. Maybe it is gone. Aug 9, 2014

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