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Routes in West Slabs
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1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 838 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is a good route that has some fun features to ascend. It is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral.
Move up into the dihedral. A small cam (yellow Alien or TCU size) works before the 1st bolt. Move out left under a cool, shallow dihedral somewhat reminiscent of something Yosemite-like clipping 2 bolts & a Bugaboo pin. Pull past a tiny bulge onto a slab that actually has real glacier polish reminiscent of Tuolumne. This slab can run with water. Climb past 4 bolts onto easier terrain. Clip one more bolt and gain the ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.
There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above. You can climb with trad protection on 5.5 terrain.
Move up into the dihedral. A small cam (yellow Alien or TCU size) works before the 1st bolt. Move out left under a cool, shallow dihedral somewhat reminiscent of something Yosemite-like clipping 2 bolts & a Bugaboo pin. Pull past a tiny bulge onto a slab that actually has real glacier polish reminiscent of Tuolumne. This slab can run with water. Climb past 4 bolts onto easier terrain. Clip one more bolt and gain the ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.
There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above. You can climb with trad protection on 5.5 terrain.
![[[Unknown 9]]108259811 in red and [[Unknown 2nd 9]]108259818 in yellow.](https://mountainproject.com/assets/photos/climb/108261130_smallMed_1494272623.jpg?cache=1374963103)
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