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Routes in West Slabs

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 284 total, 5/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is a good route that has some fun features to ascend. It is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral.

Move up into the dihedral. A small cam (yellow Alien or TCU size) works before the 1st bolt. Move out left under a cool, shallow dihedral somewhat reminiscent of something Yosemite-like clipping 2 bolts & a Bugaboo pin. Pull past a tiny bulge onto a slab that actually has real glacier polish reminiscent of Tuolumne. This slab can run with water. Climb past 4 bolts onto easier terrain. Clip one more bolt and gain the ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.

There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above. You can climb with trad protection on 5.5 terrain.

Location

This is the 3rd route from the left on the right side of West Slabs. It starts in a small, right-facing dihedral just above a raspberry patch.

Protection

7 bolts, 1 pin, 1 yellow Alien/TCU.

Photos

Doug Redosh
Golden, CO
Doug Redosh   Golden, CO
Nice pitch!! 2.5 stars! I never saw the piton. Maybe it is gone. Aug 9, 2014