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Routes in West Slabs

1978 Bracksieck/Mallow Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
BLM (aka, Bolt Like Mad) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hwan Kap T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left-facing Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shaft, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tin Can Arete T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 2nd 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 5 T,S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Unknown 7+ T,S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9 T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown 9+ T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 351 total, 7/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the 2nd route from the left of the obvious routes on the right side of West Slabs. It may be identified with a cruxy looking start below a bolt maybe 12 feet up.

Find some small, positive edges and hop aboard. Make a highstep and get situated to clip the bolt. A budding 5.9 leader may want a stick clip. Move up on easier terrain to the 2nd bolt. A fall on this section is unlikely but would likely hurt a lot. Make a weird move up and leftward to get the 3rd and 4th bolts. A optional cam could be placed before the 3rd bolt. Pull the tiny bulge and pick your sequence. You can join Unknown 7+ to the left or move up over angling ledges/cracks. Clip the 2 bolt intermediate anchor (not rappable), clip another 2 bolts, and gain a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with rappable hangers.

There is another 2 bolt anchor perhaps 70' above.

Location

This is the 2nd route from the left of the obvious routes on the right side of West Slabs. It may be identified with a cruxy looking start below a bolt maybe 12 feet up. It too starts out of a raspberry patch. This year, the vegetation looks oddly unhealthy at the start.

Protection

7 bolts, #0.75 Camalot, +/- orange Alien.

Photos

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