Type: Trad, Sport, 180 ft (55 m), 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,303 total · 10/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Jul 26, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a line that may start lower from the ground, but there was no definite lower pitch, so we'll describe as a 2-3 pitch line that starts about 40 feet up on a grassy ledge. This could be linked into a single pitch.

P1. Climb onto a slab, place a cam (#0.75 to #1 Camalot size), and clip some bolts. There are good holds to make this much easier than it looks. Above the 3rd bolt, you may want to be careful with this large flake on the right...pulling outwards might cause something to happen that you might not like. Continue up easier terrain to a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks, 5.7, 50'.

P2. Move up and left following big horizontals on cruiser terrain to a ledge at a small tree. You can belay at the two bolt anchor with rappable hangers a few feet left. 5.0, 80'. Alternatively, you can continue up the dihedral that is pitch 3 of the 1978 Bracksieck/Mallow route past a retrobolt next to good natural placements, 5.7, 130'. Note, this can run with water.

P3. Climb a fingertip seam with an early crux up a slab past 2 bolts. Small Aliens and a #1 Camalot protect this section. Gain a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor with quicklinks. Note, the rope pull is a bit difficult with the orientation of the links. Another couple of links or chains might help.

Make up to 4 raps angling right to the ground. Note that you may be able to rap down and left from the 2nd rap to gain the anchors above , , and .

Location Suggest change

This starts on a ledge ~40' off the ground on the right side of the West Slabs.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts, a light rack to a #2 Camalot works. Note, you may want the #3 & 3.5 Camalots if you do the left-facing dihedral below to start this.