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California
> Central Coast
> Pinnacles NP
> High Peaks
> High Peaks Central
> Long's Folly
Regular Route
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.3 from 6
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Routes in Long's Folly
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Abner Bear is Everywhere S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Regular Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 95 ft (29 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dave Hammack and Dick Michael 3/1950 |
| Page Views: | 2,079 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Jason Ogasian on Jul 16, 2013 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: due to nesting condors the Machete Ridge area may be closed, from Dos Equis / Corona on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original. Check the NPS and Friends of Pinnacles websites for further information.
Description
Follow the bolts to traverse left into the obvious chimney facing the High Peaks trail. Climb up into the chimney to an optional intermediary belay (with chains). Continue straight up to a rap anchor on the summit.
Rapping from the summit with a 70m rope didn't leave very much extra on the ground. Be sure to check that your ends are down or, to be safe, use the intermediary rap anchor if you have a 60.
Location
Approach: hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. You will see Long's Folly on the left marked by the obvious chimney bulging out of its face.
Protection
5 bolts protect the traverse up to the chimney. Medium to large cams can be used to protect the chimney to the first anchor.
Above the optional belay is low grade (5.1-5.2) slab with no bolts for about 30 feet to the summit. It's a bit run out but a #2 BD C4 can be placed in a pocket about 15 feet up if desired.
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