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> Milkman's Wall
Mr. O'Clock
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.6 from 7
votes
Routes in The Milkman's Wall
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Beat the Clock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Betazoid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doxycycline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Indio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Gertrude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Horrors of Ivan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jugs, Not Drugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Crabbe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mr. O'Clock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tourist Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weak Link, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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World's Toughest Milkman, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Zaxxon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser |
| Page Views: | 881 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Ol Toby on Jul 9, 2013 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford |
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Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
This route follows obvious right-facing flakes up to a stance at a shelf. A small cam protects the pull over the bulge and into the shallow left-facing corner system, then a traverse left on cool jugs leads to a mantel and the chains.
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