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Routes in The Milkman's Wall

Beat the Clock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Betazoid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doxycycline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Indio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Gertrude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrors of Ivan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jugs, Not Drugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Crabbe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. O'Clock T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Weak Link, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
World's Toughest Milkman, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Kevin McLane
Page Views: 106 total · 4/month
Shared By: Tim Bonnell on May 30, 2016
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Access Issue: Stop Camping Illegally Details

Description [Suggest Change]

An excellent companion route to Horrors that offers arguably better face climbing. This is a fairly serious lead and would be an incredible on-sight for someone with the sufficient mental and physical strength.

The climbing is typical Milkman wall stuff - slightly over-hanging with some long reaches between good holds.
Start with hard moves off the deck to a bolt at about 15' (don't fall getting to it). From the bolt, some more steep crimping takes you slightly left to a jug with good feet. This is the best rest and allows you to place good gear from a nice stance. Move up and right through a tough overlap to the Horrors Cave and then back left to a decent rest and another opportunity for gear. You probably want to double up on the pro at this point since this is all you get. The next few moves getting established on the head wall are pumpy but all there. Keep a cool head and continue up on small but positive crimps - the climbing eases off as you get higher but the run-out will keep your attention

Location [Suggest Change]

The route starts just right of Mr. O'Clock (about 10' left of Horrors)

Protection [Suggest Change]

a single rack to 2" is plenty.

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