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> Milkman's Wall
Mr. Crabbe
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 1
vote
Routes in The Milkman's Wall
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Beat the Clock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Betazoid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doxycycline S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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El Indio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Gertrude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Horrors of Ivan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Jugs, Not Drugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mr. Crabbe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Mr. O'Clock T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Tourist Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Weak Link, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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World's Toughest Milkman, The T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Zaxxon T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 75 ft (23 m) |
| FA: | Royal Robbins (I think)....not sure who got the FFA |
| Page Views: | 1,029 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Tim Bonnell on Jun 30, 2016 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Camping
Details
The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
Yet another classic Milkman Wall route. This climb takes the rising, rightward crack line starting at the layback feature at the bottom of Tourist Delight.
Climb easily up on juggy flakes, passing Mr. O'Clock until you merge into the crux of El Indio. Follow the right trendign crack into the Horrors cave and finish as for that route.
Climb easily up on juggy flakes, passing Mr. O'Clock until you merge into the crux of El Indio. Follow the right trendign crack into the Horrors cave and finish as for that route.
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