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Routes in The Milkman's Wall

Beat the Clock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Betazoid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Indio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Gertrude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrors of Ivan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jugs, Not Drugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Crabbe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. O'Clock T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Weak Link, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
World's Toughest Milkman, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Peder Ourom and Clive Thompson, 1981
Page Views: 3,190 total · 24/month
Shared By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007
Admins: Kate Lynn, Nate Ball

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Description

While considerably more overhanging than your average 5.8, a series of excellent flakes provide great holds and protection. The final mantel on a great jug will make you smile.

Protection

Some medium to large nuts and a single set of cams up to 3 inches should be fine. A 3.5 camalot can be used at the finish if you want to sew it up.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.9
This is a 5.9 by any measure in Squamish. Good climb, but be solid at the grade down low-good gear is...sparse.

Fun, but probably not top 100 compared to other 5.9s on the list. Jul 5, 2017
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
  5.9
Great route, worth the hike. Good warm-up and a fun place to take your beginners who don't have strong fingers but might have big muscles! Is it a 9 or an 8? It's easy either way, but I say the overhang bumps up the grade...haven't seen too many novices pull that last move on their first try.

Protects very well, but save something big if you want to protect that last move. Oct 13, 2009

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