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Routes in The Milkman's Wall

Beat the Clock S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Betazoid S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
El Indio T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Gertrude S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Horrors of Ivan T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jugs, Not Drugs S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mr. Crabbe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mr. O'Clock T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Weak Link, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
World's Toughest Milkman, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Peter Croft, Hamish Fraser
Page Views: 865 total, 16/month
Shared By: mattyama on Jun 11, 2013
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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Description

Climb past two bolts to a small cave in the middle of the wall. Move up right into a crack to finish.

Protection

2 bolts, standard rack.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
 
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
 
Great climb. I'd say be really solid at the grade, as pro is finicky and hard to get. I'd say a single rack to a green camalot and double up on small to green or yellow alien. I didn't use any stoppers, as the pump was a bit much for me, but if 5.11 is in your comfort zone, there are a few options for small to medium stuff. Jul 5, 2017
James Ellis
Seattle, Washington
 
James Ellis   Seattle, Washington
 
Decent, but I'm not sure about it's "top 100" status in the select guide. I found the gear to be a bit finicky, the "right angling crack" is actually more of a jug rail with some openings for gear in the back. There are plenty of opportunities for good gear but they are fairly specific. May 30, 2017
Ol Toby
CA
  5.11c
Ol Toby   CA
  5.11c
Bring a few smaller to medium nuts and/or an orange metolius/grey alien to protect the finish. Very enjoyable route with a pumpy sequence out of the "cave." Jul 9, 2013