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Routes in 3rd Tier

Ativan Grin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cartwheel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choad, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DARK HALF, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangling Legs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Sleep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Halcion Hallucination T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Into the Groove S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of the Aug T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Numb Bunion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 729 total, 13/month
Shared By: Laine Christman on Jun 26, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route ascend a small bulge/roof then follows a thin crack and small edges to the chains

Location

Right of Cartwheel

Protection

Gear to 0.5" many wires needed. Offset wires are useful.

Photos

Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
A #4 camalot was the perfect first piece in the obvious, large pod where the crack climbing begins.

In terms of rock quality and difficulty, this climb is up there with The Fracture at Sugarloaf for me. Once spied, this line needs to be climbed. May 9, 2014
Ryan Curry  
 
I dunno. Kennedy "rediscovered" the pitch a few years back, but the anchor was already up there from some prior ascent. Jul 2, 2013
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Who's got the FA on this one? Jul 1, 2013
Ryan Curry  
 
No worries, Laine. I really enjoy seeing these routes on here. Keep up the good work! Jun 28, 2013
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Desription updated. Thanks, Ryan! Jun 27, 2013
Ryan Curry  
 
This is a fun route. Thin gear protects much of it; I recommend a set of small brass wires and tiny cams (including a black alien or equivelant).

Also, the climb is probably closer to 60'-70' long, definitely not 90'. Jun 26, 2013