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Routes in 3rd Tier

Ativan Grin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cartwheel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choad, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
DARK HALF, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangling Legs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dr. Sleep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Halcion Hallucination T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Into the Groove S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of the Aug T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Numb Bunion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: FA: Kennedy & Bauer FFA: Christman & Waldron
Page Views: 930 total · 18/month
Shared By: Tyson Waldron on Jun 7, 2014
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Skinny

It's neither stubby nor wide. The Choad is instead maybe the longest line at the tiers, as well as one of the better ones. It's almost all perfect 5.8 hands and fingers except a couple of semi-burly moves at a roof.

This section is easily avoided if you don't want to crank .10+ by going left and coming back into the line at your earliest convenience. Going left here is more in character with the rest of route, but slightly less direct and awesome. When Kennedy went at this it was in full dirty-bird mode, and he also took the giant roof on as a true roof. Unable to pull the section as it was, he aided through this very brief spot of difficult climbing. The route was dubbed The Choad, forgotten, and never freed.

We went to work cleaning lichen from the face and dirt out of the cracks, and this thing cleaned up very nicely, especially the crux, which made climbing the roof in a different way a little more obvious and a whole lot easier than it previously felt (both of us tried and failed to climb it in its virgin and incredibly dirty state).

Hopefully this line develops into one of the classics at The Tiers. It's already pretty clean for a new route, and the hand sections are just killer moderate jamming. The route is engaging the whole way, and it's reeeaaally long. 70m's and below plan on two raps to the ground. The route can be climbed in one mega pitch (belay from top) or two smaller ones.

The proposed name for the 5.8 variation is "The Grundle" haha. Enjoy!

Location

This is the very first route as you cross the creek on the approach to the 3rd tier. Start below a small roof that is ~12ft up.

Protection

Pro to 3" optional 4" doubles in the .75 to 3 range will be comfy.

Photos

nice work, thanks for scrubbin da choad! and anchors. Jun 10, 2014
Tim Mansfield
Sparks, NV
 
Tim Mansfield   Sparks, NV
 
You can rap from the top anchor down the gully to the right with a 70m. Make sure to knot your ends. May 23, 2018

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