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> Cloudburst Canyon
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> 3rd Tier
The Choad
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 3.1 from 22
votes
Routes in 3rd Tier
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Ativan Grin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cartwheel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Choad, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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DARK HALF, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dr. Sleep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Halcion Hallucination T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Into the Groove S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Long Arm of the Aug T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Numb Bunion T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Oooh My Legs T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | FA: Kennedy & Bauer FFA: Christman & Waldron |
| Page Views: | 2,226 total · 17/month |
| Shared By: | Tyson Waldron on Jun 7, 2014 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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The Skinny
It's neither stubby nor wide. The Choad is instead maybe the longest line at the tiers, as well as one of the better ones. It's almost all perfect 5.8 hands and fingers except a couple of semi-burly moves at a roof.
This section is easily avoided if you don't want to crank .10+ by going left and coming back into the line at your earliest convenience. Going left here is more in character with the rest of route, but slightly less direct and awesome. When Kennedy went at this it was in full dirty-bird mode, and he also took the giant roof on as a true roof. Unable to pull the section as it was, he aided through this very brief spot of difficult climbing. The route was dubbed The Choad, forgotten, and never freed.
We went to work cleaning lichen from the face and dirt out of the cracks, and this thing cleaned up very nicely, especially the crux, which made climbing the roof in a different way a little more obvious and a whole lot easier than it previously felt (both of us tried and failed to climb it in its virgin and incredibly dirty state).
Hopefully this line develops into one of the classics at The Tiers. It's already pretty clean for a new route, and the hand sections are just killer moderate jamming. The route is engaging the whole way, and it's reeeaaally long. 70m's and below plan on two raps to the ground. The route can be climbed in one mega pitch (belay from top) or two smaller ones.
The proposed name for the 5.8 variation is "The Grundle" haha. Enjoy!
This section is easily avoided if you don't want to crank .10+ by going left and coming back into the line at your earliest convenience. Going left here is more in character with the rest of route, but slightly less direct and awesome. When Kennedy went at this it was in full dirty-bird mode, and he also took the giant roof on as a true roof. Unable to pull the section as it was, he aided through this very brief spot of difficult climbing. The route was dubbed The Choad, forgotten, and never freed.
We went to work cleaning lichen from the face and dirt out of the cracks, and this thing cleaned up very nicely, especially the crux, which made climbing the roof in a different way a little more obvious and a whole lot easier than it previously felt (both of us tried and failed to climb it in its virgin and incredibly dirty state).
Hopefully this line develops into one of the classics at The Tiers. It's already pretty clean for a new route, and the hand sections are just killer moderate jamming. The route is engaging the whole way, and it's reeeaaally long. 70m's and below plan on two raps to the ground. The route can be climbed in one mega pitch (belay from top) or two smaller ones.
The proposed name for the 5.8 variation is "The Grundle" haha. Enjoy!
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