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Long Arm of the Aug
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
FA: | Dan Kennedy |
Page Views: | 1,859 total · 13/month |
Shared By: | Colonel Mustard on Sep 9, 2013 |
Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
Spy the thin double crack system that goes over a bulge on white rock above. This is what you aim for and is essentially the second half of the climb.
The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).
From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" or 5" piece is handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and lie-backs will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.
SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.
The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).
From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" or 5" piece is handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and lie-backs will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.
SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.
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