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Routes in 3rd Tier

Ativan Grin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cartwheel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choad, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DARK HALF, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangling Legs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Sleep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Halcion Hallucination T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Into the Groove S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of the Aug T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Numb Bunion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 115 ft
FA: Dan Kennedy
Page Views: 663 total, 13/month
Shared By: Colonel Mustard on Sep 9, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Spy the thin double crack system that goes over a bulge on white rock above. This is what you aim for and is essentially the second half of the climb.

The first half is largely a crack system that ranges from hands to fingers. A bit mungy still. Where it pinches down, you brave the face up and left using some knobs and flakes until reaching the first bolt (~60' up).

From here, there's a wide crack (where a 4" or 5" piece is handy) and the beginnings of the double crack system. Delicate stemming, high steps, and lie-backs will see you up past the next and final bolt and to the anchors.

SAFETY NOTE: You can just barely top rope with a 70m, so use caution and knot the ends.

Location

Between Dr. Sleep and Ativan Grin. There is a tree growing halfway up that is a bit left of the route and is in the path of the lower off/rappel.

Protection

Gear from fingers to 3" with one 4-5" piece. Two bolts en route. Chain anchors.

Photos

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I thought this was the best route at this crag (at least that I've been on). Oct 7, 2013