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Routes in 3rd Tier

Ativan Grin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cartwheel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choad, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DARK HALF, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangling Legs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Sleep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Halcion Hallucination T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Into the Groove S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of the Aug T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Numb Bunion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 112 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 621 total, 11/month
Shared By: Patrick Mulligan on Jun 24, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This finger crack climbs the broken face and short finger crack to a ledge just above the middle of the third tier ledge. Then the main crack leads you to the chains (and through a bush) another 80' higher. Gear can be finicky, but its all there.

Location

See topo on main Woodfords Page for location of route.

Protection

doubles of nuts to finger sized cams and singles to 2". Micro cams are helpful

Photos

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Ensign
Zephyr Cove, NV
 
Ensign   Zephyr Cove, NV
 
I would second Mike McL's recommendation for the offset cams. I found offset aliens and HB offset nuts quite useful. You'd probably be ok without them, but it was nice being able to securely protect those flaring sections. Overall a good route, definitely worth doing. Jul 1, 2017
Mike McL
South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
Mike McL   South Lake Tahoe, CA
 
offset cams are very useful for this route. There are lots of flaring cracks in the middle of the route that eat up offset cams. Bring 'em if you have 'em. Oct 3, 2015
Kenny Thompson
Cottage grove oregon
Kenny Thompson   Cottage grove oregon
This is a great route! Jun 12, 2014
BruceB
Reno, NV
  5.10b PG13
BruceB   Reno, NV
  5.10b PG13
Thin friction and balancy moves through the crux. Pros nicely with care. Many micro to finger size cams recommended. I couldn't get wired nuts to work very well, but that's not to say they couldn't in the right hands. Needs 70m rope.
Slightly gritty right now, but would clean up nicely with more use. May 5, 2014