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Routes in 3rd Tier

Ativan Grin T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cartwheel T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Choad, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
DARK HALF, The T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dangling Legs T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dr. Sleep T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Halcion Hallucination T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Into the Groove S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Long Arm of the Aug T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Numb Bunion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 630 total · 11/month
Shared By: Laine Christman on Jun 25, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up to a horizontal crack, continue up the crack that goes straight through an obvious roof then jogs left and up a steep wall to a slab. The chains are set back 10 feet on the slab.

Note- the original route required one to "cartwheel" across a blank section to the base of the slab, however Mark Bauer did a more direct and exciting variation to the chains.

Location

Located up and right of The Dark Half

Protection

Pro to 1.5", wires and micros useful. For the last 20 feet the pro is questionable.

Photos

Ensign
Zephyr Cove, NV
 
Ensign   Zephyr Cove, NV
 
I would also agree on the questionable protection on the upper section of the route. Slider nuts were helpful in the very thin crack up there. I got a questionable cam from a suboptimal stance in the final steep bit, trembled and fretted my way through that, then was able to get a good TCU in the easy slabby traverse to the anchor. Jul 2, 2017
Tyson Waldron
Reno, NV
 
Tyson Waldron   Reno, NV
 
Agreed on the questionable pro up higher. I placed a good .1 BD, then a tiny brass wire, then a psychological green link cam in junky rock... It's not very hard climbing up there, but definitely take care.

Not a reason not to climb this thing, I thought it was a lot of fun. May 8, 2014

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