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Psychotic Realization
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in 9. The Dream Wall
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Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nameless A S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Nameless B S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psychotic Realization T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ten Years Later T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 44.17601, -71.68788 |
| FA: | FFA Jon Sykes and Fletcher Wyman |
| Page Views: | 1,432 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Eric8 on Jun 24, 2013 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
This climb centers around a cryptic and engaging boulder problem out a clean scope of rock.
P1-Climb easy cracks to the large ledge that splits the dream wall. Tree and rap/belay station here. Same as Ten Years later.
P2. Climb easily (5.6ish) up and left to a high first bolt, can get small gear before. Work left and then back right to a good edge and a somewhat challenging clip (easy with the draw on). Boulder out the technical crux sequence (v4/5) and get established under the roof. There is one none trivial pull to get over the roof but you can get good gear before. Once over the roof it is an easy romp to the anchors.
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