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Routes in 9. The Dream Wall

Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychotic Realization T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ten Years Later T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: FFA Jon Sykes and Fletcher Wyman
Page Views: 444 total · 7/month
Shared By: Eric8 on Jun 24, 2013
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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This climb centers around a cryptic and engaging boulder problem out a clean scope of rock.

P1-Climb easy cracks to the large ledge that splits the dream wall. Tree and rap/belay station here. Same as Ten Years later.

P2. Climb easily (5.6ish) up and left to a high first bolt, can get small gear before. Work left and then back right to a good edge and a somewhat challenging clip (easy with the draw on). Boulder out the technical crux sequence (v4/5) and get established under the roof. There is one none trivial pull to get over the roof but you can get good gear before. Once over the roof it is an easy romp to the anchors.


Between route with a view and ten years later.


Gear to 1 inch



More About Psychotic Realization