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Routes in 9. The Dream Wall

Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychotic Realization T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ten Years Later T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 125 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jon Sykes, Tim Burke & Jamie Cunningham 93'
Page Views: 163 total, 2/month
Shared By: BALDY on Oct 30, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best routes at Echo. Best done in two short pitches. First pitch climbs 5.5ish cracks to a tree ledge (tree with rap station). The next pitch is what you came for. 5.6R moves off the ledge gains a bolt on a smooth steep slab. Hard 5.10 moves up the steep face brings you to a crack, and the crux roof. Protect as much as you want, then power through the roof (awesome 10b) to easier climbing and a 2 bolt anchor with a beautiful view.

Location

About 40' right of the prominent arete.

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

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Fun stuff. The roof is quite hard. Not sure the bolted slab section is 5.10 but definitely 5.9. Off the ledge I would not call it 5.6R. More like, make a 5.2 step or two with no pro, until you can get to the bolt on the slab. Aug 3, 2017
Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
 
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
 
From the tree sling (the top of P1 for Ten Years Later, Bucked-Toothed Chicken Splitter, and the 12b) this route goes straight up the slab (3 bolts) to the obvious roof crack. Short route with two 5.10 cruxes: the slab crux at 2nd/3rd bolt, and pulling the roof (great placements here). Oct 4, 2016
edward pinskey
bethlehem NH
 
edward pinskey   bethlehem NH
 
This route is really cool and the gear is great, get on it for sure. I was happy to have a old 3.5 on me. Dec 29, 2015