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Routes in 9. The Dream Wall

Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Psychotic Realization T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Ten Years Later T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: John Sykes..established by Ed Pinskey & Isaiah Newton
Page Views: 336 total, 18/month
Shared By: edward pinskey on May 28, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun moderate addition to this crag. start up a broken crack and flake system, to the first bolt. Move past the bolt (crux) to a good stance. climb over a slight bulge to the slab above, protect as desired and move to the next bolt. Pull onto the cool dyke and climb it to the next bolt. Clip the bolt and climb to the anchor. The bottom part of the route was used as the first pitch of a aid route put up by John Sykes, that eventually goes through the roof on the left. All bolts where put in free on lead.

Location

This is the furthest right route on the Dream Wall. the start is 30 feet to the right of the first pitch of Buck Tooth Chicken Splitter. Look for the broken crack and flake system with a rounded groove above. rappelling with a 60m rope just barely gets you down.

Protection

Four bolts and gear to BD.75 mostly the small stuff. Double bolt rappel anchor.

Photos

june m
elmore ,vt
june m   elmore ,vt
I didnt notice any protection between the bottom two bolts, you dont want to fall there.(might be a reach issue, or a lichen issue) Oct 9, 2016
edward pinskey
bethlehem NH
 
edward pinskey   bethlehem NH
 
The bottom is a bit dirty but it's cleaning up nicely. The slab above is much cleaner. Jun 2, 2016