Type: Trad, 85 ft (26 m)
FA: John Sykes..established by Ed Pinskey & Isaiah Newton
Page Views: 1,137 total · 14/month
Shared By: edward pinskey on May 28, 2016
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

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A fun moderate addition to this crag. start up a broken crack and flake system, to the first bolt. Move past the bolt (crux) to a good stance. climb over a slight bulge to the slab above, protect as desired and move to the next bolt. Pull onto the cool dyke and climb it to the next bolt. Clip the bolt and climb to the anchor. The bottom part of the route was used as the first pitch of a aid route put up by John Sykes, that eventually goes through the roof on the left. All bolts where put in free on lead.


This is the furthest right route on the Dream Wall. the start is 30 feet to the right of the first pitch of Buck Tooth Chicken Splitter. Look for the broken crack and flake system with a rounded groove above. rappelling with a 60m rope just barely gets you down.


Four bolts and gear to BD.75 mostly the small stuff. Double bolt rappel anchor.