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Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.1 from 32
votes
Routes in 9. The Dream Wall
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Arete, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bucked-Toothed Chicken-Splitter T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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In Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Nameless A S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Nameless B S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Psychotic Realization T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Ten Years Later T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | Chris Marks, Alan Pilgrim, Pete Henden July '92 |
| Page Views: | 2,496 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Annaconda on Oct 14, 2012 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
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Description
A cool route through the big roof right of the Arete. 1 or 2 pitches.
Climb the rounded buttress with good holds up to a tree with rap slings. Optional belay here. Above the tree, climb straight up to left-trending flakes and layback up until you can step right over the overlap (crux). Scramble back left under the big roof to the left facing corner. Awesome, awkward moves out a horizontal crack (5.7) with great exposure lead over the roof. Pad up the easy slab above to the anchor.
Climb the rounded buttress with good holds up to a tree with rap slings. Optional belay here. Above the tree, climb straight up to left-trending flakes and layback up until you can step right over the overlap (crux). Scramble back left under the big roof to the left facing corner. Awesome, awkward moves out a horizontal crack (5.7) with great exposure lead over the roof. Pad up the easy slab above to the anchor.
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