Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Chris Marks, Alan Pilgrim, Pete Henden July '92
Page Views: 1,347 total · 17/month
Shared By: Annaconda on Oct 14, 2012
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A cool route through the big roof right of the Arete. 1 or 2 pitches.
Climb the rounded buttress with good holds up to a tree with rap slings. Optional belay here. Above the tree, climb straight up to left-trending flakes and layback up until you can step right over the overlap (crux). Scramble back left under the big roof to the left facing corner. Awesome, awkward moves out a horizontal crack (5.7) with great exposure lead over the roof. Pad up the easy slab above to the anchor.

Location

Start 40 feet right of The Arete. Looking up you'll see a big roof capping a left-facing corner - that's your target.

Protection

standard rack. Two bolt belay/rappel anchor at the top. Two raps will get you to the ground, or you can probably do it in one with a 70m.

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The top of the route after the dope roof
The top of the route after the dope roof
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5 Comments

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Daniel Weisman
Seattle, WA
 
Daniel Weisman   Seattle, WA
 
Not sure if we did this the right way, but really didn't enjoy the finish... Getting onto the face above the roof was pretty unpleasant because of a big loose flake that felt like it would come off if used as a hold. Anyone know if that's way off the route/normal/new? Apr 18, 2016
Casey Engstrom
Burnaby, BC
Casey Engstrom   Burnaby, BC
This route is the leftmost route from the sling tree. The bolts traversing off to the right are the 5.12b, 3 bolts straight up is the 5.10b, and Bucked-toothed 5.8 goes up and left to the undercling diagonal crack. The crux is getting over the bulge at the overlap, don't be tempted to step off to the right here. Go straight up at the overlap and find a critical right hand crimp, otherwise feels more like 5.10. The roof is easier than it looks, fun exposure as you traverse left on a horizontal crack. From there it's a 5 easy romp to the anchors. Oct 4, 2016
edward pinskey
Bethlehem NH
 
edward pinskey   Bethlehem NH
 
This is by far one of the best routes on the cliff. Jan 30, 2017
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
There is some confusing beta to this one. Clearly you can see the line of bolts leading left from the tree, as well as the easier exit to clear the roof. But there's this second bolt which seems out of place. Going up towards it is nasty 5.10+ slab, then you are stuck under the roof with no good options. An easier alternative is to clip the first bolt, then go left some more until you can reach some easy holds that take you up. Then you can surmount the roof that way, working back right on cool moves til you get to the crack which splits the roof (above the 10b). Bad rope drag, kind of a weird line. Not sure if this is what other people have done? Aug 3, 2017
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
When you end up just below the big roof are you supposed to hand traverse on the cracks to the right, with your feet on the slab below - or are you supposed to get your feet up onto the roof from that position, and traverse right with your feet on holds that are up over the overhang? I got pretty confused on this one, and had a follower that maxes out around 5.8 so I decided to bail and finish up the Arete which actually made for a very nice moderate line.

I loved the idea of hand traversing the roof to the right with my feet down on the slab, but it seemed like that couldn't possibly go at 5.8 Aug 22, 2017