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Routes in Wall of Wow

Bitchin! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowabunga! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groovy! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hell Yeah! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
LOL! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
OMG! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh that smell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polypro Bo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Presho Girls Like it Rough T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short, Blake and Hard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sick! S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speedstick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stanky S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tubular! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wow! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yeah S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Cronin
Page Views: 351 total, 6/month
Shared By: Chris treggE on Jun 19, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

A hard start on small holds leads to easier enjoyable climbing, and then a crimpy crux up high. Finish on stealth jugs. See accompanying photos for position of the climb.

Location

Right of Oh that Smell. Third route from the leftmost route on the wall. Do yourself a favor and buy the Cronin guidebook.

Protection

6 bolts, anchors. Stick clip is not a bad idea to have at spearfish.

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.11b
Franck Vee  
  5.11b
This is an amazing route for those looking for a though onsight at the grade. It is doable as you don't have so much pressure pump-wise, but the route will keep you guessing from the mid-point to the finish. It's easy to miss a critical pockets, and at other time you may not actually see what you're aiming for but need to go explore for holds, although you don't want to over-commit doing that either.

The crux is somewhat crimpy, but really more about feet placements than about crushing finger strength. It's not an easy crux for 11b, but again as much as bout position as it is about strength. One would wish it went a bit longer.

The first crux could be considered getting off the ground - it is the hardest single move of the route, more bouldery in nature than the real crux above. You could probably cheat it somewhat by traversing from Oh that Smell. Jul 25, 2017