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Routes in Wall of Wow

Bitchin! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowabunga! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groovy! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hell Yeah! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
LOL! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
OMG! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh that smell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polypro Bo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Presho Girls Like it Rough T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short, Blake and Hard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sick! S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speedstick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stanky S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tubular! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wow! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yeah S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Probably decided by a flip of a Coin.
Page Views: 228 total, 12/month
Shared By: BBQ on May 3, 2016
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is definitely the best route for the beginning climber that has ever been bolted at The Shadowlands.

Screw Doorf. Get on this one first. It only makes sense...it is literally the second climb you will encounter when you walk up the trail from the Shadow Lands parking lot.

Toss your rope onto the lovely ground of a very cleaned out belay station and enjoy every minute after that. This route actually starts out easy and works its way up a killer, double crack system that has ample jugs, sidepulls, pockets and really, really good crack climbing for those who have some basic vocabulary in finger locks and tight hands. If you feel around enough, you will actually find deep, positive pockets within the cracks.

After about the 5th bolt it makes more sense to stay right of the bolt line for a few moves on really good rock that sports edges and pockets on terrain that starts off slightly overhung and then suddenly gets good and overhung.

Fight your way through a crux through the last two bolts and get good and past your last bolt on terrain where the pump will keep you guessing right up until you clip the chains.

It really is cooler than most 5.9's in the canyon with the exception of maybe DragonFly and Totally Flaked. Those who flew up a 5.8, known as Strung Out on Crack, at Blue Sky, really need to skip their next session at The Black Betty Wall and just head on up to The Shadowlands. Get on this superb route and enjoy a groovy send that is as close to orgasmic as you can possibly get on easier Spearfish Canyon limestone.

Location

First route on the very right hand side of The Wall of Wow.

Protection

10 quickdraws. Open Anchors.

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