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Routes in Wall of Wow

Bitchin! S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Cowabunga! S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Groovy! S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Hell Yeah! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
LOL! S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
OMG! S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Oh that smell S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Polypro Bo S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Presho Girls Like it Rough T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Right Guard S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short, Blake and Hard S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sick! S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Speedstick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stanky S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sweet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tubular! S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Wow! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Yeah S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 143 total, 2/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 13, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Stay warm and cool on this silky fabric of a dihedral climb. Starts on a blocky formation and the good feet end there. Start stemming and working your way up a finger crack formation. Work your way past a couple bulges and a small roof pull which is oddly similar, yet almost opposite of what you would find on another 5.10c climb called Buffalo Gap.

How can a thermos keep something hot and cold at the same time? How can your underwear keep your junk so warm, yet so cool?

These are question left to Mr. Wizard. Get on this climb if you want to learn the true meaning to the concept of duality.

Location

At the far left hand side of the Wall of Wow and just to the right of a "splitter" crack.
Polypro Bo is tucked in a corner behind a tree. Step over the pipe and at the end of the first blonde wall you come to when you gain entry to The Shadowlands.

Protection

Bring eight quickdraws. Open shut anchors.
Franck Vee
  5.10b/c
Franck Vee  
  5.10b/c
Great route - fun mixte of stemming & lay back. As opposed to some of the routes around, not very pumpy at all - for most of it you can just stem for a rest.

It will test if your stemming capacities are up to par or not - will likely feel much harder than it really is if not. Jul 25, 2017