Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mike Cronin
Page Views: 190 total · 2/month
Shared By: BBQ on Sep 13, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Description

Stay warm and cool on this silky fabric of a dihedral climb. Starts on a blocky formation and the good feet end there. Start stemming and working your way up a finger crack formation. Work your way past a couple bulges and a small roof pull which is oddly similar, yet almost opposite of what you would find on another 5.10c climb called Buffalo Gap.

How can a thermos keep something hot and cold at the same time? How can your underwear keep your junk so warm, yet so cool?

These are question left to Mr. Wizard. Get on this climb if you want to learn the true meaning to the concept of duality.

Location

At the far left hand side of the Wall of Wow and just to the right of a "splitter" crack.
Polypro Bo is tucked in a corner behind a tree. Step over the pipe and at the end of the first blonde wall you come to when you gain entry to The Shadowlands.

Protection

Bring eight quickdraws. Open shut anchors.

Photos

Franck Vee
  5.10b/c
Franck Vee  
  5.10b/c
Great route - fun mixte of stemming & lay back. As opposed to some of the routes around, not very pumpy at all - for most of it you can just stem for a rest.

It will test if your stemming capacities are up to par or not - will likely feel much harder than it really is if not. Jul 25, 2017