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Routes in 1. Amphitheatre

Batman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Le toit de Ben T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Perseverance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
l'Amphithéâtre T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Claude Lavallée, Bernard Poisson, 1958
Page Views: 1,346 total, 25/month
Shared By: Luc-514 on Jun 18, 2013
Admins: Luc-514

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Site access fees - Frais d'accès Details

Description

1. Cross slab (little to no pro) and mantle up ledge on the left end. follow ledge to the right and climb up the thin cracks to a mantle on the next ledge.
2. Climb up to a small roof/corner with a crack in the back, sloping ledge to the right, get up on ledge (crux) and traverse right to sloping ledge with a big crack.
3. traverse right to corner (exposed) and (V1) keep traversing right to last vertical crack and head up over to a ledge (possible to belay here to see your second) and to the top of the cliff.

V1 - Head diagonally up the crack.

1. Traversez la grosse dalle (pas grand protection) et surmontez le petit mur pour atterrir sur une vire, suivez la vire jusqu’à un relais sur pro.
2. Montez le petit surplomb/coin avec une grosse craque dans le fond, rétablissez sur la tablette en pente et traversez a la prochaine tablette pour y faire un relais.
3. Traversez a droite jusqu'au coin (expose) et (V1) continuez de traverser la face jusqu’à la deuxième fissure que vous suivez a la vire (relais possible pour voir le second) jusqu'au sommet.

V1 - Suivez la craque diagonale

Location

Right end of the amphitheatre, start off on the ledge just left/under Ben's Roof.
Rap down double ropes the overhanging amphitheatre (amazing) or do 2 rappels off the right ledge (hanging rap bolts).

Protection

Protect your second!!!!
big pieces are nice to have on the second and third pitches.

Photos

Francis QC
Montreal
  5.8 PG13
Francis QC   Montreal
  5.8 PG13
You can rap down in one shot with a 70m rope Apr 8, 2016
I would agree with Luc. There's no 5.8 on this route. The crux (as described elsewhere) is a solid 5.7, but very well protected. The PG is on easier ground. That said, the route-finding is a real challenge, there's a lot of traversing, the exposure is wild and backing-off would be a major undertaking. This is a potent combination which means that you need to be an experienced trad climber before getting on it and the second needs to be solid as well. It's also one of my all-time favorite climbs at Val David so don't miss it if you're traveling in the region. Aug 21, 2015
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
Mike, it's my impression of how hard the climbing is on this route.
I'm used to old skool ratings, Ampitheatre isn't all that hard, it's just exposed, especially the two shelf moves on the first pitch, the rest is all well protected.
Anyone can submit their rating for the climb to provide a consensus. Jun 30, 2014
Mike McLean
5.8 PG13
Mike McLean  
5.8 PG13
Luc, I'm curious why you rated this 5.7; the guide book puts it at 5.8. I just did Michael Ward and that was a hard 5.8 (the start), so I'm wondering if you're just re-adjusting based on other 5.8's in the parc. Jun 30, 2014
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
There was also a piton just above the crux, actually I was able to pull on it while topping out. Jun 6, 2014
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
Yup, that's the crux, weird shoulder dislocating fist jam around the corner while mantling onto that sloping block, once on the block, you have the horizontal crack overhead to protect and grab onto while traversing.
Try it wet ;o) Jun 5, 2014
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
I just climbed it, I must say that the route finding was quite tricky. Looking at the photo now I can't even find the path I took. When I climbed it, I wound up in a place that did not seem like a 5.7 or 8 exit at all and that I doubted I could even climb (exiting a little corner roof with cracks in all the corners on the center wall). After a bunch of deliberation we kind of figured out where I should go. In the end, a really thin flake was a distinguishing feature, I had to climb up/top out/ mantle above the little flake onto a ledge. The crux in my version of the climb was topping out/mantling above the little flake (basically 1 move but with a scary fall if the gear popped).

Beta warning: The final crack on the left facing wall was superb. I used 2 #4 bd camalots and 1 #3, as well as a large nut.

This climb was scary with regards to dealing with height, particularly because most of the climb was traversing and the fall potential to end up below the route was scary. Jun 4, 2014
Mike McLean
5.8 PG13
Mike McLean  
5.8 PG13
Great! I had actually always thought it traversed more tot he left.

I'll try to remember to get some pictures when I'm out there next. May 23, 2014
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
I'd love more pics of the area! I traced it out as best I can. May 23, 2014
Mike McLean
5.8 PG13
Mike McLean  
5.8 PG13
Luc: Can you draw the line in the photo? It seems pretty intricate and easy to get lost. May 22, 2014
Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
 
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
 
It's pretty complicated to lower a climber,
P1 not much pro to lower off.
P2 starting the second pitch, if you can't make the shelf move to the traverse, you can lower/back climb-clean to the belay on the left, passed that point the going is easy to the belay on the angled ledge (large cams) where you could rap from leaving gear (there may be a bong there but BACK IT UP!!!!). I've already found booty gear here ;o)
P3 Once you start on the right face, you may be able to reach the route's starting ledge if you have enough rope or the hanging Rap Anchor on that face. May 22, 2014
Daniel Israel
Montreal, Quebec
 
Daniel Israel   Montreal, Quebec
 
can a climber be lowered if they can't finish the climb? May 22, 2014