[Hide Comment] can a climber be lowered if they can't finish the climb? May 22, 2014

[Hide Comment] It's pretty complicated to lower a climber,
P1 not much pro to lower off.
P2 starting the second pitch, if you can't make the shelf move to the traverse, you can lower/back climb-clean to the belay on the left, passed that point the going is easy to the belay on the angled ledge (large cams) where you could rap from leaving gear (there may be a bong there but BACK IT UP!!!!). I've already found booty gear here ;o)
P3 Once you start on the right face, you may be able to reach the route's starting ledge if you have enough rope or the hanging Rap Anchor on that face. May 22, 2014

[Hide Comment] Luc: Can you draw the line in the photo? It seems pretty intricate and easy to get lost. May 22, 2014

[Hide Comment] I'd love more pics of the area! I traced it out as best I can. May 23, 2014

[Hide Comment] Great! I had actually always thought it traversed more tot he left.

I'll try to remember to get some pictures when I'm out there next. May 23, 2014

[Hide Comment] I just climbed it, I must say that the route finding was quite tricky. Looking at the photo now I can't even find the path I took. When I climbed it, I wound up in a place that did not seem like a 5.7 or 8 exit at all and that I doubted I could even climb (exiting a little corner roof with cracks in all the corners on the center wall). After a bunch of deliberation we kind of figured out where I should go. In the end, a really thin flake was a distinguishing feature, I had to climb up/top out/ mantle above the little flake onto a ledge. The crux in my version of the climb was topping out/mantling above the little flake (basically 1 move but with a scary fall if the gear popped).

Beta warning: The final crack on the left facing wall was superb. I used 2 #4 bd camalots and 1 #3, as well as a large nut.

This climb was scary with regards to dealing with height, particularly because most of the climb was traversing and the fall potential to end up below the route was scary. Jun 4, 2014

[Hide Comment] Yup, that's the crux, weird shoulder dislocating fist jam around the corner while mantling onto that sloping block, once on the block, you have the horizontal crack overhead to protect and grab onto while traversing.
Try it wet ;o) Jun 5, 2014

[Hide Comment] There was also a piton just above the crux, actually I was able to pull on it while topping out. Jun 6, 2014

[Hide Comment] Luc, I'm curious why you rated this 5.7; the guide book puts it at 5.8. I just did Michael Ward and that was a hard 5.8 (the start), so I'm wondering if you're just re-adjusting based on other 5.8's in the parc. Jun 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] Mike, it's my impression of how hard the climbing is on this route.
I'm used to old skool ratings, Ampitheatre isn't all that hard, it's just exposed, especially the two shelf moves on the first pitch, the rest is all well protected.
Anyone can submit their rating for the climb to provide a consensus. Jun 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] I would agree with Luc. There's no 5.8 on this route. The crux (as described elsewhere) is a solid 5.7, but very well protected. The PG is on easier ground. That said, the route-finding is a real challenge, there's a lot of traversing, the exposure is wild and backing-off would be a major undertaking. This is a potent combination which means that you need to be an experienced trad climber before getting on it and the second needs to be solid as well. It's also one of my all-time favorite climbs at Val David so don't miss it if you're traveling in the region. Aug 21, 2015

[Hide Comment] You can rap down in one shot with a 70m rope Apr 8, 2016

[Hide Comment] This was originally 5.6. Feels like 5.13 when you're on that traverse though! Oct 18, 2019

[Hide Comment] Great last pitch! Can easily be done in two pitches with a 60m rope. Just set up the first belay whenever the rope drag gets too bad. Jul 2, 2020

[Hide Comment] We did it in two pitches (as suggested by the guidebook), but beware rope drag. A horizontal crack between the second tree and the left facing wall provide opportunities for splitting the second pitch into two small pitches, which couldve really helped with the drag. Bomber-looking piton will guide you to the obvious ledge/seat on rocks to place your first belay. Can only be rapped using a 60m rope if anchoring into the (extremely) exposed, hanging belay on the left wall on the way down, splitting the descent in two. We climbed with a single 60m and opted to top out and just walk around instead (maybe 20mins if you look at the map and follow the trails)! Protect your second, and note that the beginning is inevitably a "no fall zone" for both leader and follower due to sparse gear opportunities. Extremely easy 5.4 horizontal terrain on the unprotected section. Crux is the weird mantle onto the slab just above the first belay (as seen in the picture titled "amphitheatre traverse"). Can't say any moves were harder than 5.7 but the exposure will really make it feel harder. Jul 6, 2020

[Hide Comment] original grade on this was 5.6, can you imagine? Nov 18, 2020

[Hide Comment] When I climbed this route in 1972, it was rated as 5.6. Around those days my comfortable leading was 5.7 level. So, I leaded this on sight. I thought it was the most exposed route for this grade, and it was more than the high "E" on Gunks. If you are comfortably leading runout sections of 5.6 routes, this exposure shouldn't be a problem; and actually you will love it. Apr 22, 2021