L'Éclair

Obvious dihedral forming the right side of the Amphitheater. A good exercise in full-body climbing, involving pushing and stemming. The roof encountered in the middle of the pitch is both strenuous and technical. Originally, the route started on the left-leaning dihedral/crack below Le Toit de Ben. Climbing it this way is about 5.10c PG-13, with the crux being that 10 m left-leaning dihedral to reach the main corner. This first section is slightly dirty and runout, with an unprotected mantle to reach the ledge.

The best way to climb L'Éclair is to start on the first pitch of Le Toit de Ben, located slightly left at the next obvious dihedral crack — a short vertical corner with a finger crack in it. Climbing it this way to the top makes it about 5.9+, though I think 5.10a/b is a more realistic grade.

There are a few options to finish once you reach the last section, which is shared with the route L'Amphitheatre (5.8). On the last wall, there is a wide fist crack on the left, which is somewhat difficult to get established on. It’s also possible to traverse right and climb the next crack, which I believe is easier.

Most people start on the first pitch of Le Toit de Ben. As described above, the route’s original start is the left-leaning dihedral/crack just below Le Toit de Ben. This start doesn’t add much quality, but could be interesting for someone seeking a bit of spiciness.

Full rack, bolted anchor at the exit, 70m rope will get you down.

Rack complet, relais équipé à la sortie, une corde de 70m pour le rappel.