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Routes in East Buttress

Longland's Continuation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sword, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 86 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on May 28, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

A fantastic way to exit from the Great Terrace, combine with Longland's continuation to the top of Lliwedd. The great terrace is normally gained by Avalanche or The Sword/Route 2.

P1) 30m
From the top left of the great terrace, climb up a red coloured slab below a roof, move left to a spike runner and a few tricky moves. Good holds continue up a broad rib (or the groove to the right) to a belay on spikes at about 30m.

P2) 30m
Either continue up the groove or the sharp rib to the right. (I can't give a good description of this because I was off route at this point.) After about 30m you should get to a broad ledge, the Green Gallery.

Location

The red slab at the top of the great terrace. Look for the spike runner, and head towards that.

Protection

A varied rack. Offset nuts would probably be more useful than straight-sided, and there are a lot of sling runners on spikes.

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