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Routes in East Buttress

Longland's Continuation T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Red Wall T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Route 2 T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Sword, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 88 total, 2/month
Shared By: Nick Russell on May 28, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

The final leg of the journey up Lliwedd, this route starts from the Green Gallery and heads to the top of the mountain.

P1) 45m
The start is quite difficult to describe. Somewhere near the centre of the Green Gallery is a steep wall, the climb starts up the arete at the left side of this. There is a microwave-sized jammed block at about 6m, climb up to this, and continue up the slab above. After a further 6m or so step right around another arete to more clean, slabby rock. Continue up the slab, then slightly more broken ground, to a spike belay below a rightwards-treding ramp. This pitch contains some of the best rock and climbing on the route (assuming the Route 2/Red Wall/Longland's Continuation link-up), if you correctly locate it!

P2) 25m
A ramp leads rightwards from the belay. Follow this easily for about 10m to the base of a slab. Directly up the middle of the slab is the best climbing, but it is slightly easier and more protectable to the left. Either way, you will soon top out abruptly on the summit.

Location

Near the centre of the Green Gallery, below a microwave-sized jammed block

Protection

A varied rack. Offset nuts better than straight sided, and slings for spike runners (plentiful)

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